1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

I would also do what Cobba has suggested
I look at like this, that I now know that it is not part of the problem

The very worst case scenario is you pull the head and it was all ok and it will cost you time a gaskets

I highly doubt this will be the case

Paul

Thanks for the push. I’ll pull it of at the next opportunity.

Hey. It’s been quiet on the F250 front. School holidays and a few issues with the old Holden has had progress at a stand still.

Got back into it today and rebuilt hydraulic cylinders of all varieties and installed a couple. Would have installed all of them but the brake company I used to make lines put an incorrect thread on 2 flex hoses. Clutch system is bled and ready to rumble.



Tomorrow I hope to remove the head and finally get the full story. Any tips on preservation for the block after I pull the head off? Could be a few months until one goes back on. I was thinking aluminum foil and a weight of some sort to keep it down. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.

Something I have done long ago was to smother the bare metal with grease to keep the rust out. Then some kind of cover over that either foil or good old glad wrap to keep it fresh. Pul the roll out of the box and wrap the whole engine.

cobbadog wrote: Something I have done long ago was to smother the bare metal with grease to keep the rust out. Then some kind of cover over that either foil or good old glad wrap to keep it fresh. Pul the roll out of the box and wrap the whole engine.

Cheers mate. I was thinking grease also as it would stick the foil down.

Engine builders I know just leave a rag on the top of the block as it has to be properly cleaned anyway, I have seen this done for some months and never known of a issue

As I said it has to be properly cleaned anyway so I wouldn't over think it to much

On stub axles I wrap them in glad wrap as soon as the hub comes off
If it's gunna be any length of time as in more than a day I wrap a rag around and tape it on

But a stup axle is covered in sticky yucky grease unlike a engine block, unless you put the grease on there your self

Cast iron wont rust in a few months, gotta remember it is full of water almost its entire life

Paul

Well here is the verdict, chip out of the valve. I’ve attached some pictures below. Can you guys please have a look through them and tell me what you think? First time I’ve gone this deep into an engine so not entirely sure if this is what to expect or it beholds further bad news. I have a bit of concern over the small pit on the edge of the block. It’s probably nothing and just poor casting. Only had a quick look but couldn’t see any scores in the bores. Can’t see much in the way of crosshatching marks either.

The piston at the top of the stroke is the one which has no compression and the one at the bottom of the stroke is for you to see bore condition. The edge of the block photo is pitting. Thank you all.

The valve may need replacing. :huh:
In the last picture is that a weld heading up to the top on the left hand side?
A good clean up is in order, at least a hone and possibly a set of rings. Have been into the bearings yet? Would be best to at least check all these things at this stage and measure them up for tolerances.

Well thats good news, you have found the problem and everything is simple from now on

I would get the head done up and chuck it back on, it may well need other work later on but it will be up and running which will be a big achievementon its own


Paul

Cheers guys. It’s good to get the difference in ideas. Makes me think a bit more about the decisions. I’m at that cross road of do I spend money on the bottom end of the 300 or do I just get it roadworthy then fast track the conversion to a 351.

Will prob have a go at some work on the head myself. The idea behind this rig was to learn so I may as well give it a go.