Cheers JOHN.K and asw120, that pretty much clears up my rim options, unfortunately ending in disappointment, that’s life. They are 16’s and the spare I have is for the front which I have been told is good as they are harder to find in that offset. I’ll ring around to see if/what custom options are available but will just use what I have for the interim and throw some cheap new tires/good quality used on them.
Cobbadog, depending on price, I will replace the 3 which are bent for sure. I plan to go V8 so not wanting to spend anymore money on this motor than I need to but who knows, I might enjoy it. I’ll ring around on Monday to see if any where near by has some on the shelf.
I found this little unit in my researching which makes the current rims more interesting and I like the look so it gives me something to explore.
Adventure before Dementia.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, PaulFH
I think the term centre lock these days refers to race or sporty car wheels with just one threaded cap in the middle to hold the wheel on. Sort of the modern version of the "knock-on" wire wheel rims used by Jaguar etc back in the day.
Are you referring to the 3 piece rims that have a ring that jams in a groove under the detachable outer?
The Ford wheels were two equal pieces /half rims,and held together along the centreline by a series of little catches.......worked when brand new,but a bit of damage from changing tyres and they wouldnt hold together.........There a many different kinds of side lock ring wheels,some have one piece lockrings ,two piece or even three piece...Ive got a pommy 11.00x20 bus wheel in the yard with lockrings on BOTH sides......I havent seen a Ford centrelock wheel in many years.....dont recall, but they may have been 17" too......There is a set of IH AB 130 wheels in back paddock ,kids set fire to the back end ,and burnt wheels dont last long in the weather.
Had some time over the past couple days to do a little here and there. Have pulled all of the wheel cylinders out, all have stuck pistons and will need rebuilds, I wasn’t surprised.
Now have the lifters out as a couple weren’t building pressure. I will have a go at pulling them down and rebuilding. Do they need to go back to the same spot they came out of? I marked them regardless. Lots of mixed messages some say yes, some say no, what’s your thoughts? Replacement pushrods have been ordered for the ones that were bent so fingers crossed it will be smooth sailing with a bit of tuning on the engine front once they go in and the lifters have been cleaned up.
Managed to get the cap off the brake master cylinder. Took some budging so had to bring out the big toys.
Drained 9L of old fuel from the tank then run 500mL or so of fresh fuel after it to flush the line a bit. There was no rust or strange sediments coming out of the tank which was a win. The old fuel was certainly cactus.
Started removing the steering box as it has a bit of play in the output shaft so want to cast my peepers over it. The only way I can see to do it is to pull the steering column out with it, so that’s what I’ve started doing. Am I going about it right or should it come out on it’s own?
At least you are making good progress. As for the lifters going back to where they came from, I don't know to be honest, but I have done it that way in the past and never hurt anything by doing so. Might be just a 'feel good thing' or might be a very good reason to do so.
I like the stillsons you use, just big enough. Good news on the fuel system too.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
I was told that people lay pushrods in order so that the tappets don't need adjusting. I never do that as the clearances always need to be reset. One thing I always do is roll the pushrods to see if any are bent.
I'd rather have tools that I don't need, than not have the tools I do need.