1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

The pistons look pretty clean ...I d say the heads been off not many miles ago..(but maybe 20 years)....no sign of burning oil......the head pic looks like one of the valves has a problem ,but maybe just dirt.......When I doing the 300 Fords years ago,I would get all new valves ,they were only a couple of bucks each ,and cheaper than a reface.....I suppose they are still available .......Simple check of the bore is can you catch a fingernail on the ridge at the top?......Those old Ford gaskets sealed good,but every bit has the be scraped off before refitting the head.

Hey JOHN.K.

Thanks for the info. There is a ridge at the top you can catch your nail on which is about where the rings would be stopping on the up stroke. Compressions is around 125 on each piston except the one with the chipped valve. What’s does that info tell you from your experience with these engines? There was no obvious oil burning when I have been running it. I think so long as I can limp this block along for a bit (will only be on club rego) I’ll just tidy the head up and torque it back down.

nail catch is a bit of wear,and you would have to ream the ridge to fit new rings .....certainly fix the valves /seats and refit the head......if you intend to fit a 351,then you have plenty of time to get the necessary bits together.

Mean Marty (PDU) would replace that valve, clean up the head and block mating surfaces, fit a new head gasket (if the old one is not reusable), and then run it as is.

The compressions are fine, the replacement valve will fix the cylinder that was low, and you'll get years out of it.

Cheers PDU and JOHN.K.

Currently tracking down a valve spring removal tool. Hopefully I can get into it tomorrow and also have a decent look at the other valves and seats.

Easiest way to get valves out is to put a 13/16 spark plug socket (or similar) open end down on the retainers and hit with a hammer. You will need the proper tool to get them back together. I agree the bottom end is worn, but appears fine for your intended use. You might need to get that one valve seat cut / ground. main thing for reassembly is cleanliness - you don't want crap getting in your new, clean valves.

Jarrod.

asw120 thanks. Have seen a tool which works in a similar fashion to that. Hopefully borrowing a mates compression tool tomorrow. I’ll give both methods a run and see how it goes.

if you have a workbench with a bit of space,you can set up a long lever with an old long socket with one side cut out to compress any valve spring on any head .......works easiest for diesels with the valves flat,for a petrol head you need a small block to pack up the valve head ..(doesnt work well for hemi head engines with inclined valves.)

For completion here is the full shot of the heads chamber side.

Valves removed and cleaned up today. All of the exhaust valves are a bit pitted so they will be replaced. The intakes have no issues and are all good to go (examples below after cleaning). Haven’t inspected the seats yet but should get that sorted tomorrow.

Any tips on cleaning the carbon out of the head? Have looked it up and a lot suggest WD40 and a scotch pad. Could be tricky getting into the ports though.