Carby cleaner = thinners so will work.
An old engine manual suggests to use kero to clean up carbon. That was then and products like WD40 and thinners were not around as much then.
Those little wire brushes do a great job but a scrape around with anything to get the bulk of it away then look at the other options.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
Cheers. Wasn’t sure carby cleaner would work when it’s caked on so hard. Will give it a go. I’ll see what wire brushes are available in town and will find some grinding paste at the same time. Oilman, you are probably right, and would know more than me, won’t hurt to give them a quick spin and see how they go. Again, thank you all.
Hi Urchy87, looks like you & I are at about the same stage with our different cylinder head re-builds.
Let's know what sealant, if any, you are planning to use on your head gasket.
Good luck with it it, looks a great project wish you well.
I agree with Oilman, I am no expert or mechanic but I do know that as long as there is some vertical face left on the valve after it has been lapped in, it will be OK. Some manufacturers give a minimum height for the vertical bit but as long as the valve cleans up without going to a knife edge (which will burn away quickly) it should be OK.
If all your valves are as good as the pair in your picture they should all clean up with valve grinding paste. Lap each valve into the position it will be assembled in and valve and seat will mate in correctly. It is a pain in the neck keeping the suction-cup ended stick on the head of the valve while you are lapping it but you get there after a while. Turn it a few times each way and then lift it up and turn the valve a little before putting the valve down and doing a bit more. A light spring over the shaft of the valve may make it easier to lift the valve without the suction cup coming off. You should aim for a mat-grey finish all around the valve. Do not expect a smooth, shiny surface.
Even if you buy new valves, you will have to lap them in.
I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,
From experience and listening to old time mechanics there are all sorts of head gasket sealers. The old sliver frost paint was a winner but tended to bake on making it likely you could not reuse the gasket at some later date.
Consensus seems to be Hylomar which you can get in a spray can. It is made and recommended by Perkins for their engines for many gaskets not just head. It is easy to use and does not make a mess. Leaves a slightly sticky surface but the gasket can be removed later.
I dont know what you get now ,but the original Ford 300 head gasket was just like the Falcon one,sort of soft fibre and metal core with a coating of silver paint on the outside ....and they stuck so thoroughly there was no chance of reuse .......Im thinking I can see the remains stuck to the block in one of the pics...............you need to check Ford exhaust valves ....some engines used aluminised steel ,and when the coating is gone ,the valve is U/S.....so they cant be refaced ,and need replacing with new.....This was why they were so cheap ,only a couple of dollars each.