1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

My understanding is that lifters should go back in the same spot as the cam is worn to suite the lifter and vice versa

I know a fella that builds all sorts of weird and wonderful stuff, as in the machining etc and he has told me it makes no difference when a motor is rebuilt as every thing is built to spec

I dunno if I got that right but I always put lifters push rods and all bolts back were they came from in the correct holes
I run taps and dies over all threads on heads and bottom ends

Dunno if it helps but it feels right to do it


Paul

I too run the taps n dies over the threads to ensure a good even torque and makes it easier to assemble

I would imagine the steering column is one piece on that. Steering wheel and coffee pot off, then the whole lot out the bottom.

Jarrod.

I’ll put the lifters back where they went. Although lifters could wear any which way in their location as they aren’t fixed which is why I wondered if it really mattered. They have no wear on the bases so hopefully the cam lobes are all sweet.

Southbound, I did exactly that when I pulled them out and the 3 replacements I required (minor bends in them) arrived today along with a replacement valve cover gasket.

I hope to break down, clean and rebuild the lifters in the next couple days. 3 didn’t seem to build any pressure up in the short period I had it running, well kind of running.

Had some help handy a couple days ago so put them to work. We removed the tray as the timber boards between the tray and chassis needed replacing and it makes it easier to get in and clean/repair anything that needs inspecting as I’m going through it all.


asw120, I’m struggling to get the steering wheel off, any tips?

It’s getting to the point where I can start repairing some of these things as the broken list is almost finished. I’ll be glad to see some areas being ticked off as complete.

Usually just back the nut off till it is flush with the top of the shaft, knees under the wheel pushing up and a gentle tap with a drift and hammer onto the nut/shaft.
Wheel may have a couple of threaded holes for a puller if it is too tight.
Cheers Steve

Hopefully the steering wheel has some small bolt holes for a puller, if so head to the auto spares department and pick up a multi tool puller that has the ability to use 2 or 3 legs. These are handy to have about the place. Also make sure you have some good flat washers to put between the heads of the bolts and the puller/ The washers provided bend like a banana.
Yes loosen the nut and use your knees to lift and hit it up with a hammer and drift it will let go eventually.

Further to the replies already offered, if (likely) the column is hollow, you will need to put something over the end so the puller main bolt doesn't go down the hole and potentially ruin the shaft.
I have had very few wheels come off with the knees and tap on the loose nut method (nut just clear of end of thread) and just go straight to the puller now. Good quality ones are surprisingly inexpensive. Don't expect any of the supplied bolts to fit, but you may get lucky.

Jarrod.

Asw120 I’ve never had a wheel not come off with the knees and hammer. Maybe your not using the right brand. You need the BFH brand.

I've had the occasion when the "knees and hammer trick" haven't worked and had to resort to standing up, holding the wheel on both sides, pull like sh..t while rocking side ways. But most important to remember to leave the nut on, but loose. Otherwise it's a wheel in the face for sure.

I was hoping someone would give the "leave the nut on advice".