1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

Well, I did none of what I planned to do. Couldn’t get down to the shed as I had to be up at the house. Worked on the wheel cylinders, and master/slave cylinders.

I pulled the last of the things hydraulic out a couple weeks back but forgot to log that in here. I struggled to free up 3 of the 4 wheel cylinders despite all of my tapping/hammering techniques. I have equipment for testing high pressure instrumentation gauges as a part of what I do to make a crust. I had a fitting for it which threaded into the bleed port and purchased a 7/16UNF bolt to block off the brake line port. I used high pressure water to free the 3 of them up. Was a bit of messing around but it worked. It took up to 5500kpa/800psi to free the worst one up and the others weren’t far behind it.

I rang a brake shop I have used in the past for the LE Coupe as I found them well priced and good to deal with. They have said it’s unlikely I would be able to buy new replacements. If the cylinders need it, it’s $85 for a sleeve and re-kit all complete by them or if it’s a parts only job and I put them together it’s roughly $20 to $40 per cylinder depending on what it is. Fingers are crossed for parts only.

I’ve cleaned up all of the bores with a scouring pad to see what I am dealing with, a couple have already been sleeved with brass and over all it doesn’t look too bad. As the bores on the master cylinders are too deep for my fingers to reach with emery tape I purchased a small honing tool. I will give them a go over before showing the brake shop what I have , then I’ll take their advice.

Tyre question for you all.

As I require a full suite of tyres I’m going to start looking around now for new or quality used. Currently it has 7.5R16’s on the split rims which I’m lead to believe is correct for the vehicle. Have any of you used 235/85R16 as a replacement for the 7.5R16’s? Will they go ok as duals being a touch wider? Want to be certain there isn’t any complications if I decide to go down that path.

Thanks, Urchy

I have 235/85 on my 1941 Dodge Weapon Carrier which had 7.50-16 originally. Slightly wider but same height. You can put tubes into them quite OK to suit the original wheels.

Quite noticeable improvement in ride and handling. I suspect the new technology will make them much better for traction and wet roads as well.

I would highly recommend the change

Lang

Thanks Lang, that’s what my thoughts were and what I’d hoped to hear after the bit of reading I had done which was all subjective.

Here is a better photo of what the 235/85-16 look like on original 7.50-16 rims.

Might I suggest a little caution here. The 235 refers to the width in millimetres, by my reckoning that's almost 10" wide compared to the standard 7.5". Your rim may or may not be suitable (safe) for that width. I chose to chase down some 7.5 tyres for the Dodge.

The Australian Tyre and Rim Association (the legislative authority for all tyre and rim specifications) says approved rim codes for LT235/85R16 are: 5.50F, 6J, 6K,6.00F, 6 1/2J, 6 1/2L, 7J, 7K, 7L, 7 1/2J. The letters after the size in inches refer to the most common rim profiles.

The only relevant note is when fitting tubes to radial tyres the tubes should be approved for radial use. I understand this is mostly universal production now.

Lang

I think Lang might be missing the dual wheel bit?

235s may well fit the rim, but the extra width is 1bout 40mm or more, so 1/2 that extra on each side of rim, and then two rims together, back where we were, LESSENS the gap between tyres by 40mm. That's nearly 2" I don't have experience with these, but like Dodgy, I'd be worried too. With the 7.50s how much gap do you have (loaded) to start with? Can that be reduced safely by 2" ?????

FWIW
we run some duels on trailers etc with less than 1 inch clearance
may B days of ol rag tyres U generated heat wen the tyres kiss
but nowa days they seem 2 B OK with not much clearance
cya

Allan

I do not know the off-set of the F250 wheels but the little Dodge above can be fitted with duals on the front or back (you can see the dual nut/stud set up). I have done this on this vehicle with the radials on the original 7.50 rims and they still have a gap of about 20mm at the bottom. A heavy load and bounce might touch but normal running seems OK.

As you say, the Ford may be less off-set or even more.

lang