1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

Cobbadog,
You are no doubt correct regarding most wreckers but Pick-A-Part in Fussell Street, Kilsyth, Melbourne, still let you wander, take samples in and take tools in too. You have to wear closed shoes and pay $2 to enter. Unfortunately they only wreck cars and small vans, not trucks.

Thanks for the suggestions all.

Wouldyou, that is very kind and generous of you. I will send you a PM after I post this.

77louie400 cheers mate. The current gauge has 45-55psi. I have a new gauge on order to rule that out. The oil light is on very dim until it gets to about 50psi. Also, you are right, I should have another crack at the hinges. I’ll have a mess round with the them when a mate is over. A different perspective is all it takes sometimes.

The potential for multiple days of wet weather had me keen to get the tray on. I could work on lights and a few other tidy up jobs in the carport if it turns out to be like that. So………it’s on. Currently it’s just resting in position but will temporarily secure it tomorrow so it can be moved around.







I also checked compression again after roughly sprucing the head up. I used a different gauge to last time and they are all reading about 10psi lower except 6 it’s 20 lower and 3 which actually has compression with the valve replaced. It’s running ok so I’m not stressed. I will also run the timing light over it tomorrow but I’m confident with my ear and the ease of starting tells me it’s pretty close.

Spent parts of yesterday and today working on the electrics. It’s been a case of removing 57 years of bad electrical decisions of the previous owners. So many dead end cables and still more to be removed. Surprises me that people direct wire spotlights etc without going through relays. Some positive and others negative switched, that keeps you guessing. :S

The best part was I spent a good hour or more looking for the indicator flasher, couldn’t find it. I looked for some drawings online to help fault find it and that told me I couldn’t find it as someone had already removed it. Replaced it so the indicators are a go.

Indicators, brakes, park and headlights are all working. One indicator is a bit dull so will check grounds on that one. Still to I’ll sort out clearance and marker lights as the tray is over 2.2m. Purchased 2 new marker lights, old style circular under tray type. Staying away from LED’s as I want the old look to go with its exterior. All lights should be sorted over the next few days. That will be another box ticked.

Not only check the earth on the indicator but check the wattage rating too.

Will do cobbadog. Thanks.

All lights except for the interior light are working. It now has 12v at the fitting after cleaning a series of corroded connections. The bulb works but it just won’t glow in the actual fitting, I’ll throw a new bulb in it on Monday to see if that makes the difference. In total I’ve removed about 40m of redundant wiring for old circuits which went to nowhere. Your guess is as good as mine for what the ever did.



I have a couple questions.

Whilst working on the wiring I actually had a decent look at things. The pressure switch has been removed and it’s just using the mechanical gauge so I was unsure why the oil light was even coming on. Turns out somebody in the history books has joined it into the ignition coil power supply. Was that an old school method of wizardry for something or someone’s poor decision? I can’t think of a reason as to why you would do it.

The second question is I need to set the quarter glass for both doors back into position properly. I’ve seen the use of window setting tape but have also been told windscreen sealant is good for the task. What have you all done? I’m open to suggestions. Window setting tape seems to be what they did from the factory so I’m leaning towards that, unable to source it locally or from the major outlets so will track it down elsewhere.

Thanks all.

Your interior light fitting is likely to be a bad earth. The fitting probably earths itself through the screws that secure it to the body and over time rust and dirt build up to impede the path of the electrons.
The oil light might be designed to come on with the key in the start position just to show that it is working.

The interior light fiting will be hot all the time and will earth out through door switches and/or turning the headlight switch all the way anticlockwise. (maybe Fords are different, but everything old I've worked on is like this.)

Jarrod.

Cheers guys, will be looking at it again tomorrow.

It’s a 2 pin bulb not using the housing for negative. There is a negative strap which looks to go behind the hood lining and a positive running down to the headlight switch which twists. I’ll look into what you have both mentioned as it’s more to fo by then what I can think of for myself.

Thank you.

asw120 wrote:

The interior light fiting will be hot all the time and will earth out through door switches and/or turning the headlight switch all the way anticlockwise. (maybe Fords are different, but everything old I've worked on is like this.)

Jarrod.

Every ford I have, that is the case