1981 Acco 1910C

Maurice, Hayseed is on the money.

I got bushes # ICM337 from Powerdown, through MaxiParts.

I don't know of any rubber bushes available.

The yellow nolathane doesn't seem to be as hard as the red nolathane. It is pliable in the hand, with a feel like that of rubber. I think they will be quite ok, and they are cheap.

I also got bushes for the swinging links from Powerdown, and they are of the same material. Also cheap.

Brett.

Good Morning,

Would anyone have a suggestion re obtaining a Wiper Washer Bottle to suit Inter Acco 1910 C Tilt Cab.

Thank you,

Maurice.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIf you want to wait a couple of weeks from China.

Same thing from Australian seller for an extra ten bucks.

Would anyone know who may stock Rubber type cab mount bushes to suit a 1981 Acco 1910 C The only type available seem to be the yellow neoprene ones that have received some unfavourable reviews as being too hard.
Thank you.
Maurice.

Have you tried Iveco? IH part number 3016 324 R3

I bought the yellow ones from PowerDown, through MaxiParts, cheap as. I haven't fitted them yet, but they feel a lot like rubber, a lot softer than i was expecting them to be, and in my opinion they appear first class. Same with the swinging link bushes, which i have fitted and am very happy with, also too cheap not to do.

I also bought some cab mount bushes from Brett's Truck Parts ridiculously cheaply, they are even softer, although they do have an "old stock" look about them. I doubt i will use them though, as i think they are too soft. If you want soft bushes, try some from Brett's Truck Parts and see if they suit you, and it'll only be minimal cost either way.

I can't see that being hard in that application would be an issue anyhow. If they are a neat fit they should stay firm and not deform, and not let the cab bounce. People often forget those bushes are under more upward force from the cab lift assist springs, than downward force from the weight of the cab.

I think the force must be equal or the cab would be accelerating into space. I suspect the rubber or whatever material bushes have the same force from both sides and the deceleration on bumps as well as static load is distributed equally throughout the flexible material. ie after 30 years the rubber will stick equally to the bottom and top plate,

Lang

Both rubber and polyurethane are measured as a Shaw "A" hardness. Most rubbers read around 68-72 Shaw "A" reading. Polyurethane can be made in exactly the same hardness and many others from as low as 50 to as high as 90. The higher the number the harder it is. A simple press with the thumb nail into a rubber part and same into the poly will indicate to you the hardness. If it is too soft you will not get the life out of it as it will wear away quickly and if too hard will wear away the metal pins.

Lang, if you unbolt the cab tilt hinges from the chassis without restraining the cab, it will accelerate into space as you undo the last 2 nuts, although usually only 8 to 10 inches, until the cab tilt assist springs come to the end of their push, but even so that is still far enough for things to get pretty messy, as the cab then quickly becomes very heavy in the direction it decides to fall.

There are 4 shouldered bushes in question, 2 on each cab tilt pin, under the front edge of the cab.

Brett.

Just wondering the safest and best procedure for fitting cab bushes.
Should it be done in the tilt position or could it be done with cab in flat posiition ?

Maurice.

I still haven't fully decided on that yet myself Maurice, but i'm thinking with the cab down. With the cab up there is a lot less tension on the cab lift assist springs to control, but the cab will be much less stable as it is not held by the swinging links, or anything else for that matter.

At this stage i am thinking it would be best to leave the cab down and the swinging links pinned. Then use ratchet straps underneath the front of the cab to secure the cab to the chassis, then undo/loosen the hinge mounting bolts from the chassis, then back the ratchet straps off slightly to let the cab rise maybe an inch or two, just so that there is no load on the hinge pins at all, and the hinge pedestals are "floating". This should then be the easiest possible conditions to get the hinge pins out and replace the bushes. If you swap a couple of hinge mounting bolts for longer bolts you will keep alignment and have added safety. At least a 1910 will have tall pedestals which will give you a bit more room to work. If you only let the cab rise enough to get clearance i don't think it would be necessary to remove the steering column off the steering box.

Perhaps just loosen, raise, and repair one side at a time to maintain the most control and alignment at all times. The passenger side should be the easiest to do, so might be best to start with that side.

The RHS hinge pin incorporates the clutch linkage, so i'm just not sure yet how that will affect which direction that pin will have to be knocked out. Perhaps look at that before you start. The circlips will be able to be removed first of all, with the cab tilted to get easier access to them.

Hope that gives you a starting point to work out what will work best for you. As i mentioned, i have not yet fitted my bushes, but i have had a bit of a look as to what the job will entail so that i can be thinking it over for a while before i start.

Brett.