torque setting on old head bolts?

I think Paul is right. The main thing is evenly set right across.

My 1915 Willys Overland gave the head torque as "A firm pull on a 6 inch wrench evenly applied to all bolts"

I just looked at a Studebaker 6x6 manual and this gave the head torque for the JXD engine 55-60 ft/lb

ours is a jxb

I have absolutely no idea from all the authorities here are a few for the JXB. The light 42ft;lb suggestion seems to apply to the 1920's OX engine.

Looks like the JXB needs a serious swing on the wrench. Seems a hell of a lot to me so keep looking.

 The specific cylinder head bolt torque for a Hercules JXB engine is 85-92 ft-lbs. A two-step tightening sequence is recommended, first to 60 ft-lbs and then a final tightening angle of 270 degrees.
Detailed Explanation:
1. Torque Specification:
The final torque for the Hercules JXB cylinder head bolts should be 85-92 ft-lbs.
2. Tightening Sequence:
A two-step tightening process is recommended. First, tighten all bolts to 60 ft-lbs.
3. Angle Tightening:
Then, starting from bolt #1 and following a specific sequence (which may be found in a Hercules service manual), tighten each bolt by an additional 90 degrees, repeating this process until a total of 270 degrees of rotation has been achieved from the initial 60 ft-lb torque setting.
4. Final Torque:
The total amount of rotation on each cap screw should not exceed 270 +/- 5 degrees after the initial 60 ft-lb setting.
5. Importance of Sequence:
The manufacturer's recommended tightening sequence should be followed to ensure even clamping force on the cylinder head and prevent warping or leaks.
6. Retorque:
After the engine has been run and brought to normal operating temperature, a final retightening of the cylinder head bolts is recommended.


Just contact this mob and instantaneously get your full manual on line.
 


 

Those modern style  torque wrenches ( typically made in Asia and sold in many auto parts stores )  that you set by rotating a sleeve to line up the marks - they need to be calibrated regularly in order to perform a accurate job.

www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench

The old Warren & Brown ( repco ) torque wrenches are reliable, and they stay accurate for many years.  Many apprentice tool makers made a torque wrench as part of their training course. 

If you are using the original Victor gaskets ,you should retighten the head several times .

It is possible to reuse the copper sheathed head gaskets,  I've done it without any problems.  It's a good idea to coat them ( old or new gaskets ) with Hylomar , the spray on stuff is excellent. 

I've had problems with damaged threads in blocks after removing head studs. Sometimes as you remove stuck studs ( using heat ) , the corrosion/rust on the studs can enlarge the thread form in the block, this damaged thread then may require helicoils .

I use that copper spray on all head gaskets now with great results. Have to lift the head on the David Brown when we get back home. I feel that there are one or 2 sticking valves. 

Angles wernt invented when these motors were common.......I had a heap of trouble with the flathead Continentals in Hyster forklifts leaking water through corroded passages .......hit on the idea of using silastic on the head gasket .......no more leaks