1970 TK

Good morning everyone,

Im looking for some information on my trucks brakes and bleeding them.

It's a 1970 Bedford TK, photos will show more information.

I have to move it a few kilometres before I can work on it properly but can do some work where it is.
I just need to be able to move it at low speed, on quiet roads to be able to strip and rebuild the brakes if necessary.

I've tried standard bleeding and using my mityvac system to no avail.

The compressor on the engine is building pressure in the brake booster.
The lines are solid and in good condition, bar one i had to change due to a kink.

I can't find a bleed nipple on the master cylinder or the valve on the passenger side chassis rail.
I also can't seem to find the gauge rod seen on some of these trucks master cylinder/booster.

Any assistance in bleeding this up would be greatly appreciated.
I am mechanically experienced and have worked on a variety of brake systems, but just can't seem to get fluid moving on this!!
Cheers!! 

More photos 

Brake stuff 

Clayton De Wandre air over hydraulic system. What are the symptoms you are trying to fix. Bleed nipple is at the wheel cylinder. Is treadle valve working.

I can't get fluid to bleed through from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders.
Nothing comes through at all.
Pedal has only spring resistance and a shot of air is released when actuated

you should only hear air being released when pedal is returned to rest so sounds like problem is on air side. Apparently a pretty common issue on relatively modern jappers which get the treadle valve replaced as often as every coupla years. Try squirting WD40 or similar through the compressor intake which helps to free and lubricate air seals, and drain the air tank(s).

I have to move it a few kilometres before I can work on it properly but can do some work where it is.
I just need to be able to move it at low speed, on quiet roads to be able to strip and rebuild the brakes if necessary.

If the handbrake cable goes down to the rear slaves and pulls on the rods,  then you could just use that to operate the rears.


Bleeding the master is a bit tricky,  assuming the rubbers aren't torn in the master.

Fill the reservoirs and probe the valve thing in each. This enusre that the fluid can drain into the bore.  Remove each pipe and use your fingers to act like a reed valve and gently pump the pedal to push the fluid into the bore.  What ever you do, don't press to the floor. Doing so will most likely tear the cups on the rust.

Once the bore is full, then slowly bleed the rears and then fronts.  If you can't bleed the master, there is a good chance the seals are torn.  Rust kills Bedford brakes.

Stainless steel sleeving is the only way to go. Mine are 13 years and 40,000 ks since sleeving.  Require a little bleed every year to keep the pedal hard. 

No matter how slow you drive with faulty brakes on a public road, and you kill someone, be prepared for free board and lodging for a long period of time.

Didn't the TK Bedford have a very effective simple mechanical disc handbrake on the tailshaft. I think they were often good enough to lock the back wheels while moving.


 

Yep, only get a toot upon release of the pedal.
It doesn't have any tanks, just the brake booster, which i have drained.
Bit of water and greasy goo with the air but not much thankfully.
Will send some lube through the system, good idea.
Cheers mate