1970 TK

To be clear, this is an oily rag restoration.
Brake and steering overhaul, cooling overhaul, change rusted out cab for a good one and put it over the pits to get it to work moving stuff.
It has a nice hiab on so it's pretty useful to me!

Ok, update. 
Front brakes, shoes good, almost new. 
Cylinders in surprisingly good condition, seals obviously required. 

Rear brakes, full of diff oil. 
Shoes worn the same amount as the fronts but will obviously require replacement as they're slick with goo. 
First cylinder off and open, looking good!! 

So at the moment it seems it's piston seals all round, 
Replace hard lines where required (some look new, some are rusted badly), 
Replace rear shoes, 
Replace axel seals,
Replace 3x flexible brake lines. 

Diff oil
Engine oil + filter 
Coolant flush,pressure test cooling system 
Work out why im only able to select 3 gears. 

Not too bad overall!! 

Does anybody have any pearls of wisdom or part numbers for, 

Rear brake shoes 
Wheel cylinder piston seals, 
Axel Seals?

Im unexpectedly heading to the city tomorrow and was wondering if i could collect things while there rather than wait for postage. 
-hence why one rear brake isn't off yet! 
Break time and realisation that I should have planned the city trip better hahahaha!!! 

Thanks for following along and any wisdom offered!! 
​​​

We used to clean oil and brake fluid soaked brake shoes with dilute truck wash, just keep rinsing them in it till they are clean. It’s not perfect but would get them usable
Gumpy

Ah coolo, I've considered it in the past but generally on things where replacement was easy.
Because this might be more difficult, i might try it but I'll look into relining or replacement too.

I appreciate the tip!

I wash shoes in petrol
If the shoes are rivited on you can heat them up with a blow torch and burn the remnants out

But I find washing petrol works pretty

Some people reckon washing in brake cleaner until the oil stops washing out

Or maybe isopropyl alcohol or metho

Paul

Just remember that the brake dust is probably laden with asbestos.

(Even the vinyl floor in my 1972 Beford bus was....)

Well, im a lucky boy!!!
Rear cylinders are ss lined already!! 
Fronts are going to be fine, zero pitting, just a bit of a build up of muck. 

​​​​​​Seal code for the cylinders is P4698 if anyone is interested. 

Just gotta get axel seal codes and some larger hard line, i only have stock of small stuff sadly. 
Im going to treat myself to a better flaring tool too. 
The last ones i did were fine but it was a faff to get them right. 
Any suggestions on those? 

Or where i might find part numbers for the axel seals? 
I can't find any numbers on them so far! 

One time I bought axle seals for an Austin truck from BL at Rocklea ...........they were just flat pieces of leather ,took them back and the counter guy says you have to make your own .

This may sound a little (or a lot) silly, but the rear axel seems to be diff oil lubrication for the bearings as I've seen the RL also seems to do.

The front axel has grease in the bearings. 

I mostly ask because someone has obviously been in here and messed around with things as the left hand thread wheel studs are on the right hand side of the truck. 
Because the bearings have obviously worn in as they are and i can't be arsed swapping studs over, it'll stay as is. 

But it got me thinking about lubrication and if they'd messed around with things in that regard also. 

Im doing the worst thing possible regarding mechanical work and doing 5 or 10 minutes here and there between other jobs so haven't had a chance to go through things to check it out, although I obviously will. 
I just thought I'd ask in case anyone knows what i should and shouldn't find when I get there! 
At least now i can confidently get cylinder seals and hopefully axel seals if i get time to pull them out and am able to identify them before the city trip tomorrow!! 
Thanks again! 

The rear hubs are fully floating. The bearings are lubricated by diff oil.

You need a special tool to remove the hub nut. And then it has to be torqued up correctly for the correct bearing preload.

If the axle has an oil seal groove (and leaks oil), a speedi sleeve will solve it.