1970 TK

Ah, makes sense.
The RL was, and i think the mk/mj too?
I'll get amongst it, clean everything up and see what's happening in the next couple of days.
Only one side has leaked.
I'll investigate further.
Will also fabricate a driver for the hub nuts.
They were loose enough to push around with a pair of cranked long nose pliers to remove them

JUST retrieved the outer seals before it got dark!!

The inners will have to wait for next time im doing work on her, none are leaking so im happy with that.

For anyone interested,

Rear outer seals 401529.
93.65x130.18x12.7

Front outer seals tc12265
3.375x4.625x0.375

Mine are marked such, but you can convert either, either way if necessary.

Just hoping i can grab what i need tomorrow, otherwise it's rural post combined with Xmas post so can't think they'll arrive soon if i need to order them!!

rustybythesea123 wrote:

messed around with things as the left hand thread wheel studs are on the right hand side of the truck. 
Because the bearings have obviously worn in as they are and i can't be arsed swapping studs over, it'll stay as is. 
 

the reason there are left and right hand threads on wheel studs is to stop the wheel coming off

When the studs are on correctly, if the wheel nuts were to move they would tighten up as you drive 
With the wheel studs reversed, if a nut was loosen it will unwind as you drive 
This is pretty important and if it was mine (and it isn't) I would try and make it correct

Paul

Paul

I understand the left hand theory and know it was fairly common from the 30's to the 70's (but far from universal). The vast majority of vehicles these days have right hand all around and don't seem to lose wheels any more than those still using L/R system. I suppose those little bits of yellow plastic - a different pattern on every vehicle - have saved such disasters.

Re the flaring tool, I’ve got a Ridgid brand one that does single and double flares, used it for the last forty years from back when I did auto A/C for a living, and it looks like the current ones.
Gumpy

Lang wrote:

Paul

I understand the left hand theory and know it was fairly common from the 30's to the 70's (but far from universal). The vast majority of vehicles these days have right hand all around and don't seem to lose wheels any more than those still using L/R system. I suppose those little bits of yellow plastic - a different pattern on every vehicle - have saved such disasters.



Wheel nuts are supposed to be torqued to stop them coming undone

Yes a quality flaring tool makes life easier. I bought one a while back n although it never needed to be a double flair I did it anyway. Definitely should be a double on brake lines

Modern wheels have a washer faced nut that is compatible with alloy wheels.............the old cone seated wheel nuts should be on the correct side ,or you risk losing a wheel.............as well as being a major defect if your vehicle should be involved in a colission that is investigated by a Govt engineer.

Just changed the factory alloy wheels on my Nissan Patrol. All right hand thread and cone not flat washer.

 

Here is the ALCOA wheel nut fitting instruction,

www.alcoawheels.com/australia/en/news/ma...omwXDhoXMIVQ7siUIfBC

After a bit of reading, reference to the shank and washer nuts is nearly always followed by "for older style alloy wheels" It would appear that the ball type seat is the go-to design for modern alloys both for the Heavy American pick-ups and full size trucks. They come in several sizes to suit the particular vehicle.

 



 

 

Theory has been disproven over time.
Most vehicles these days are all right hand thread studs