AT4 dual cab rebuild.

Thanks all for the replies and info.
Got the truck into the mother in law's shed last night (our new shed is a couple of months away, she's been kind enough to let me store it there until ours is done).

A chip of paint came off the bonnet last night. The VIN plate gives the color code as 'Balm 8653', which from an old thread in this forum looks to be otherwise known as alpine white:  Paint code match up - Forum - Historic Commercial Vehicle Club of Australia

Otherwise it looks like I have everything except a windscreen, plus a fair few spares.

Next step is to rebuild the carb, change the oil & plugs and see if I can get it started (I'm thinking while the plug are out I'll try and inject some oil around the edges of the pistons to provide some lube on startup).
I've never been so excited to head to the mother in law's house.

I would squirt some oil in the the plug holes, and leave the plugs out while you turn it over on the starter until you have oil pressure, put the plugs back and then try to start it.

The now retired farmer down the road, had a mid 1960s Dodge AT 318 with the cattle crate on it. He got nabbed at the sale yards by the transport guys, a unroadworthy sticker and a list of repairs including a new windscreen, king pins, new crate hold down brackets, new tyres  and other stuff.  He just rang O'Brien's and they had a mobile guy who installed a new screen in no time. 

A lotta people get a old dizzy and grind the gear off or remove it completely, depends on the motor and how it's built

Anyway with just a old dizzy shaft and base and a electric drill you can get oil pressure up before turning the motor over
Dunno if the design of your motor allows for this

Paul

Before you get the oil pressure up, I would drain the oil, drop and thoroughly clean out the sump. You might be amazed at how much crud there is in the bottom of the sump and you would not want that stirred up and dragged through the motor. WhiIe you have the sump off, you can easily get to and clean the screen on the oil pump.

If you are unlucky, you may have to fit a new sump gasket but that is much cheaper than reconditioning the engine.
 

So as the truck has been at the mother in law's place, i haven't had too many chances to work on the thing, just 30 mins on the night of the weekly family dinner.
So last week I pulled the plugs (all look good, a bit of soot on the ends but otherwise in good nic) to put a cheap scope down the cylinders. All had good cross hatching, some light scoring on #1 but a comp test when we're running will show how bad. After this I poured some oil down the plug holes and let it soak for a week (penrite 20W-60 HPR30).
Last night I went down there and shuffled the fan back & forth, it broke free very easily and now I can rotate the engine easily by hand.
Next week I'll be dropping the oil out, drop off the pan & pickup for a clean as suggested, and giving it a crank. I'll put some more oil in the cylinders before hand to ensure the bores are protected while pressure builds.

The carb is at home so I'll give that a once over this week, and hopefully get it started next week.
Happy days!