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466 Bedford motor
14 years 1 day ago #39281
by graham g
Replied by graham g on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
Hi all
thanks for great feed back re 466 beddi, a REAL mechanic is going to assist us . but says dry liners need to come out new ones put in ,, says they weld down the liner and pull out .. sounds drastic , is this how it done ?
i have got a bit gun shy ,, gotta get i right this time ,, spent $ 5000 and we are worse off than when we started
let me know what you all would do
graham
thanks for great feed back re 466 beddi, a REAL mechanic is going to assist us . but says dry liners need to come out new ones put in ,, says they weld down the liner and pull out .. sounds drastic , is this how it done ?
i have got a bit gun shy ,, gotta get i right this time ,, spent $ 5000 and we are worse off than when we started
let me know what you all would do
graham
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14 years 1 day ago #39282
by Chocs
Replied by Chocs on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
I have done it like that, the weld shrinks the liner so it can be pulled up.
Some liners are very thin and are difficult to extract with a puller, thats why that method is used.
Ask the mechanic plenty of questions if you need them answered.
You should be able to get a 'reasonable' estimate from him in relation to costs etc.
Are you still at Goondi?
Regards
Chocs
Some liners are very thin and are difficult to extract with a puller, thats why that method is used.
Ask the mechanic plenty of questions if you need them answered.
You should be able to get a 'reasonable' estimate from him in relation to costs etc.
Are you still at Goondi?
Regards
Chocs
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14 years 1 day ago #39283
by
Replied by on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
All depends on how mutch the 466 is going to cost. At the end of the day they are old school engines
Have a think about re powering with a later model engine. The izusu 6BD1 T is an ideal engine for a bus with heaps more Go. They should be around the wreckers they are a common engine........
Have a think about re powering with a later model engine. The izusu 6BD1 T is an ideal engine for a bus with heaps more Go. They should be around the wreckers they are a common engine........
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14 years 1 day ago - 14 years 1 day ago #39284
by
Replied by on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
Graham, running a bead of weld inside a dry liner to assist with removal is a common and professional method. The weld shrinks substantially when it cools, and this shrinks the liner as well, and they just tap out with a few light taps.
At $5000 down, you're in a swamp with crocs up to your ar$e, after you just started off to drain it.
You have little choice from here, but to ensure that all major components are in good shape, meet factory specs, and that any hidden problems are found .. otherwise you're throwing good money after bad.
This means careful inspection, checking, and measuring, of all major engine components.
The only alternative is to source another engine in good shape and install it. However, that won't be cheap either, and you always stand a risk with another engine having problems within a short time, anyway .. unless you get a substantial guarantee with it.
If the right bloke with the correct attitude to engine overhaul is employed, he will find any not-so-obvious, or unseen problem/s, fix them, and guarantee his workmanship accordingly.
Standard practice amongst engine reconditioning houses is that they give 30 days warranty on their workmanship. There's no reason why anyone with professional engine repair skills, wouldn't offer this.
Cheers - Ron.
At $5000 down, you're in a swamp with crocs up to your ar$e, after you just started off to drain it.
You have little choice from here, but to ensure that all major components are in good shape, meet factory specs, and that any hidden problems are found .. otherwise you're throwing good money after bad.
This means careful inspection, checking, and measuring, of all major engine components.
The only alternative is to source another engine in good shape and install it. However, that won't be cheap either, and you always stand a risk with another engine having problems within a short time, anyway .. unless you get a substantial guarantee with it.
If the right bloke with the correct attitude to engine overhaul is employed, he will find any not-so-obvious, or unseen problem/s, fix them, and guarantee his workmanship accordingly.
Standard practice amongst engine reconditioning houses is that they give 30 days warranty on their workmanship. There's no reason why anyone with professional engine repair skills, wouldn't offer this.
Cheers - Ron.
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14 years 1 day ago #39285
by bigcam
Replied by bigcam on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
I use an old JCR Isuzu as a yard truck, I don't know what motor is in it, but the old girl runs beautifull, the only maintenance it's had in 5 yeasrs is 1 oil change, and fitted low water/oil alarms. Paid $3,000 for it, there would have to be more of these out there with rusty cabs. Though I suppose you are then up for the conversion costs
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14 years 1 day ago #39286
by kennymopar2
Replied by kennymopar2 on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
is it possible that the beddy engine has a heavily glazed bore ? also the new rings may need time to "bed" themselves in esp if the bore hasnt been honed ... a isuzu engine is a good conversion ..usually the 6BD1T ( 5.75 6cyl turbo @ 175hp) my isuzu with that motor gets a hiding everyday local & interstate . . id be careful spending to much more money on the bedford motor ,even getting a cyl head pressure tested isnt cheap
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14 years 1 day ago #39287
by graham g
Replied by graham g on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
graham back again
thank you all , you have given me some piece of mind re the welding removal of old dry liners , how should he put new ones in ? im getting so bloody gunshy maybe i should not second guess these guys ,, and hope for the best ,, we have a engine book on disk not sure how extensive it is re engine specs .. and just how far the mech isgoing to go into it all
We know an izuzu goes in ,, but is HUGE job .. new mountsgear box ,, enginers inspection .. we have wa plates ,, and are in qland .. then you have to find motor
and some one who is prepared to put it in .....
Ihave a mate who put one in his old beddie .. by a old bloke in Perth some years ago ,, Mech said he would not do another ,, ,, so seems we have to go with what we :ve got Shes old and tired but we gotta get some more otta her
thanks folks
graham
thank you all , you have given me some piece of mind re the welding removal of old dry liners , how should he put new ones in ? im getting so bloody gunshy maybe i should not second guess these guys ,, and hope for the best ,, we have a engine book on disk not sure how extensive it is re engine specs .. and just how far the mech isgoing to go into it all
We know an izuzu goes in ,, but is HUGE job .. new mountsgear box ,, enginers inspection .. we have wa plates ,, and are in qland .. then you have to find motor
and some one who is prepared to put it in .....
Ihave a mate who put one in his old beddie .. by a old bloke in Perth some years ago ,, Mech said he would not do another ,, ,, so seems we have to go with what we :ve got Shes old and tired but we gotta get some more otta her
thanks folks
graham
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14 years 1 day ago - 14 years 1 day ago #39288
by
Replied by on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
Graham - The 466 is a pretty good old motor, and repairing it is the simplest and most straightforward option .. but you need to ensure that the crank and block are correct and within specifications before installing new liners, pistons, rings, etc.
In addition, you need to ensure the new parts are correct for the engine S/N.
If the block is warped, the crank bent or twisted, or some other hidden problem is in the background, you will waste a heap more money.
It's kind of like trying to install a window frame in a warped wall. You'll wreck your window frame and waste your efforts, because the basics aren't checked and true.
The liners are installed by wrapping them in newspaper and freezing them in the freezer for a couple of hours. The newspaper keeps them cold once they're taken out of the freezer, and allows you to handle them without your fingers sticking to them with the cold. The bores need to be coated with anti-seize (Never-Seize) to assist with installation, and to prevent any welding or galling of the liner to the bore.
I just pulled out the 466 engine parts book, and perused the design changes. There are 5 different short motors (according to S/N) .. 3 of which are NLS (No Longer Serviced) .. and 7 different piston/ring sets (5 of which are NLS) ..
There are standard height, reduced height, and overheight pistons (standard marked by "2" or just plain tops, reduced height marked by "3", overheight marked by "H" or "1") ..
There are two different head P/No's (early head is NLS) .. so you can see the amount of design changes that can lead to problems, just by themselves .. without the additional problems of components suffering from wear or being out of specification.
Cheers - Ron.
In addition, you need to ensure the new parts are correct for the engine S/N.
If the block is warped, the crank bent or twisted, or some other hidden problem is in the background, you will waste a heap more money.
It's kind of like trying to install a window frame in a warped wall. You'll wreck your window frame and waste your efforts, because the basics aren't checked and true.
The liners are installed by wrapping them in newspaper and freezing them in the freezer for a couple of hours. The newspaper keeps them cold once they're taken out of the freezer, and allows you to handle them without your fingers sticking to them with the cold. The bores need to be coated with anti-seize (Never-Seize) to assist with installation, and to prevent any welding or galling of the liner to the bore.
I just pulled out the 466 engine parts book, and perused the design changes. There are 5 different short motors (according to S/N) .. 3 of which are NLS (No Longer Serviced) .. and 7 different piston/ring sets (5 of which are NLS) ..
There are standard height, reduced height, and overheight pistons (standard marked by "2" or just plain tops, reduced height marked by "3", overheight marked by "H" or "1") ..
There are two different head P/No's (early head is NLS) .. so you can see the amount of design changes that can lead to problems, just by themselves .. without the additional problems of components suffering from wear or being out of specification.
Cheers - Ron.
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14 years 1 day ago #39289
by Swishy
JuanTrak
GuddayM8
U had me worried there for a bit
Me thort u were gunna use th@ big fancy word of yours
'UNOBTAINIUM'
but looks ok
nothing th@ a few $$ can't fix
May B Graham B in truble by spendin hiz kidz inheritance now
LOL
Cya
[ch9787]
OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST
There's more WORTH in KENWORTH
Replied by Swishy on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
JuanTrak
GuddayM8
U had me worried there for a bit
Me thort u were gunna use th@ big fancy word of yours
'UNOBTAINIUM'
but looks ok
nothing th@ a few $$ can't fix
May B Graham B in truble by spendin hiz kidz inheritance now
LOL
Cya
[ch9787]
OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST
There's more WORTH in KENWORTH
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14 years 1 day ago #39290
by graham g
Replied by graham g on topic Re: 466 Bedford motor
Thanks Ron
I have a 466 manual , not sure how extensive it is , it does have some specifications in it , so i hope new mechanic has tools and know how to figure it all out
Dont know if he could check for crank warp and block warp
will keep you all posted
graham
I have a 466 manual , not sure how extensive it is , it does have some specifications in it , so i hope new mechanic has tools and know how to figure it all out
Dont know if he could check for crank warp and block warp
will keep you all posted
graham
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