1949 Dennis F1 Fire Truck Restoration

Long time since I added to this page!

As you will have gathered by the above couple of posts, Aussiehooker offered to look at my left-side front window frame to see if a right-side frame could be made up to match. I had already assumed that I would have to finish the windows as fixed glass, so I decided that I had everything to gain by Aussiehooker having a look. The previous posts show the frame crated up for despatch. I had cleaned the frame and latch, but hadn't polished them as Aussiehooker had offered to polish them up for me.

First, the latch was polished, and wow! What a difference! Truly looks like a new one!



On a separate post, I

More progress to report

If you are using C belts, I think you will find they are too narrow to work properly. The pulleys are designed for 1" (25 mm) wide belts, but C section is only about 21-22mm wide.

Instead if sitting in the top of the pulley, they are down in the groove. They will work but will wear out fairly quickly.

We have been searching for years to find 25mm belts, but they seem to be only available in very long variants nowdays .

If you are using C belts, I think you will find they are too narrow to work properly. The pulleys are designed for 1" (25 mm) wide belts, but C section is only about 21-22mm wide.

Instead if sitting in the top of the pulley, they are down in the groove. They will work but will wear out fairly quickly.

We have been searching for years to find 25mm belts, but they seem to be only available in very long variants nowdays .

Gidday Beaver ... The measurement at the inside face at the outside diameter of the pulleys on Dennis are 23mm, so a 25mm belt will sit a little proud of the outside. A C-section belt looks like it will still sit well clear of the bottom of the pulley though. Interesting about the increased wear on a C-section belt, because the existing belt that I have re-fitted sits part-way down the pulley, but still clear of the bottom, and measures 20mm across the outside. This must be a worn C-section one then.

Bugly - Re the radiator hoses .. you can buy corrugated hose with a reinforcing spring inside it, that will bend to fit most applications where there's a couple of oddball bends that aren't too sharp.

I've recently found a clever idea from Gates, called Unicoil. These are stainless steel spring coils with a small stainless strip, spot welded to the last 3 coils, each end.
The idea is, you slide them on a hose, and then bend the strip to suit the required bend in the hose.
The main problem seems to be that Gates are only making them up to 1 3/8" diameter at present.

I got pretty cunning with this Unicoil idea, and I'm pretty proud of my exercise on my WB ute this week.
The bulkhead water drain tubes are a PIA in the old Holdens, and they not only block up with leaves and trash .. but they develop twists, flat spots, and kinks, that ensures they block up .. >

I started off replacing a drivers side wiper pivot, that had come loose on the wiper arm crank .. when I realised the RHS drain tube was twisted and blocked ..
I pulled the drain tube out, and went and inquired at my local auto parts supplier as to what type of hose reinforcing was available .. and the parts bloke produced the Unicoils.

I bought the 5/8" size coil, took it back to my shop .. carefully ground the steel strip off .. then twisted the sharp ends back at 90

topic variance:

slip down to the hydraulic shop next time Ron...
spring wire to wrap hydraulic hose with...
readily available over the counter mate...
works a treat....

PS
ya can even use it in the inside of the hose, to stop it collapsing under suction, like some radiator hoses have standard...the stainless usually doesn't fall to bits though...


chocs

Chocs, I know about the hydraulic hose reinforcing wire, but the stuff isn't stainless .. and the hose shops are miles away from my shop .. .. and the stuff is usually only available in larger diameters and much longer lengths. The Unicoil spring is designed for radiator and heater hoses, and fitted my little project like a dream. It's not often a plan comes together with a success rate like this ..

If you are using C belts, I think you will find they are too narrow to work properly. The pulleys are designed for 1" (25 mm) wide belts, but C section is only about 21-22mm wide.

Instead if sitting in the top of the pulley, they are down in the groove. They will work but will wear out fairly quickly.

We have been searching for years to find 25mm belts, but they seem to be only available in very long variants nowdays .

Gidday Beaver ... The measurement at the inside face at the outside diameter of the pulleys on Dennis are 23mm, so a 25mm belt will sit a little proud of the outside. A C-section belt looks like it will still sit well clear of the bottom of the pulley though. Interesting about the increased wear on a C-section belt, because the existing belt that I have re-fitted sits part-way down the pulley, but still clear of the bottom, and measures 20mm across the outside. This must be a worn C-section one then.

A properly fitted V belt should have the tapered lower side walls contacting the pulley walls. For this reason a 1" belt may sit slightly proud of the pulley.

When you fit a narrower belt, most of the contact is at the very top edge of the belt, not the sides as intended. V series belts have a different taper profile to C section. The reduced contact area puts all the transmission stress at one point, hence the belt will break down very quickly.

This should not be a problem unless you are driving down to Alice, but just keep a regular watch on the inside edge of the belt.

Chocs, I know about the hydraulic hose reinforcing wire, but the stuff isn't stainless .. and the hose shops are miles away from my shop .. .. and the stuff is usually only available in larger diameters and much longer lengths. The Unicoil spring is designed for radiator and heater hoses, and fitted my little project like a dream. It's not often a plan comes together with a success rate like this ..

no drama Ron..
I have had hose wound with Stainless spring wire, app. 1/2" OD.
I have also had other spring wire that is not stainless, however, it does not rust, even after years of rubbing on a body surface of a machine..
The only time it does cause any drama, is when it is crushed.
It can be purchased off a roll, in varying diameters from bugger all to bluddybig..

Just some useless info that someone living closer to a hose shop may find useful one day....

chocs

lou if you try some of the hose blokes or gates as suggested you will most likely find a hose it could be off a v8 xy falcon or a ab 130 inter . you may have to cut it down to get length the other option get your bends right and use a bit of exhaust tubing and a couple of clamps to join it all together you will need an inhibitor to stop corrosion in the engine so the exhaust pipe wont corrode dont use glycol based anti freeze anti boil as it is not recommend for that type of engine if you get some dimensions for the radiator rubbers i am sure that i can get some weather they come from the tractor wreckers 4 wd wreckers or my mate who builds sleeper boxes where there is a will there is a way . its good to see ron and the boys using their grey matter with the springy things on the hoses catch you later as i have an appointment with a block of brass a file and a drill press don