Vintage wheel puller needed

Good idea Swish!
Might be too much centre hub sticking out in this instance though..??
The puller will be the go in that instance Trev.
Lot of taper to hold it in place...
You may even require a little warm...
Maybe some warm, let it cool out, then perhaps some more in the arvo..let it cool out again and then wrestle it off with a stuey puller..
I have helped a bloke do one on a grader...same warming procedure, hydraulic jacks from the chassis to the wheel and then a few cracks to the side of the hub with Swishy's FB hammer..
chocs

Gents,
I used to do this with a couple of 1920's Dodge Bros buckboards, loosen up the lock nut a few turns, jack up the opposite rear wheel, and place a hardwood block over the end of the nut and give it a few healthy whacks with a 14lb hammer and it should shift. I did that for awhile till I picked up a wheel puller, but importantly it did work and did not damage the thread.
I was told this by an old bloke who drove this stuff in the 1920's, I was a little skeptical but worked a treat.

Cheers

Heelerau

You need two things to get that off !!!, interstaters offer to make the correct puller and oxy to heat it up, thats the way to get it off without damage,


just an observation

I'm with heelerau here. Try his technique .. along with a little judicious use of "warmth" on the hub .. and that taper will part company with the hub, in 1/10th of the time it takes Stu to knock up a "proper" puller. Squirting a dose of "loose juice" into the keyway groove, in the form of CRC, diesel, Break-Free, Kroil, or your favorite secret mix, will assist in removal. Make sure you use properly seasoned, quality hardwood, not a chunk of pine, or some other gutless softwood.

Oh ,well if ya in a hurry then go for it, plenty off them layin around ay ?

Assessor

You are spot on they aint lying around on every street corner so need to be carful not to break/bend anything, also dont know how many times these have been taken off in its 84 year history.
Heelerau & onetrack i can see what you are trying to achive but as the whole diff/wheel assembly is out of the truck it means it will be a lot harder to do it that way.

But also need to be careful not to damage the 3" thread as this is were the hub cap screws on.

I think this still needs some looking/thinking time.

Trevor

Gents,
I used to do this with a couple of 1920's Dodge Bros buckboards, loosen up the lock nut a few turns, jack up the opposite rear wheel, and place a hardwood block over the end of the nut and give it a few healthy whacks with a 14lb hammer and it should shift. I did that for awhile till I picked up a wheel puller, but importantly it did work and did not damage the thread.
I was told this by an old bloke who drove this stuff in the 1920's, I was a little skeptical but worked a treat.

Cheers

Heelerau

Well bugger me dead i thought i would give this ago today and you know what, i got one side to move but the other one would not budge, Just sent Stu the sizes for the puller so i will think i will wait for that, But still thinking about Swishy's solution maybe see if a mate has some steel laying around and give it a try while i wait for the puller.

If i can get them off on this one i still have to takle the other diff on the S-24 & the spare and both of those dont look like they have been off in a long long time.

Trevor

Trevor - A 14lb hammer, used judiciously, works wonders with many "recalcitrant" parts. As an old bulldozer man, I have more than a passing friendship with the old 14lb-er, and learned many tricks with it over the years.

The important factor when slugging is to ensure that the item you're hitting cannot move (i.e., is held VERY securely).
The Americans refer to movement when hitting as "bucking", and use solid bracing on the item to be held, to prevent bucking.

Any "bucking" absorbs your hitting energy .. a 14 lb-er hitting a solid surface, that is solidly braced, delivers the same impact, as a 100-ton shop press .. and very few items will resist movement from a 14lb-er under the right conditions.

This is how old dozer track master pins were moved in and out .. we never had any "fancy" portable presses when we were young, broke, and enthusiastic.

Cheers - Ron.

The new puller is underway...

Stu

Thats what i call service with a

onetrack
Is it the bigger the nock o meter the more accurate.

Trevor