Dodge / Inter 4wd Diesel Wanted

hey guys

I am currently looking for a serious little tow vehicle to support my broad range of work in primary production.

My in town ride is an AT4 114 Dodge, 'Darby', and I have a project 53 'B series' Pilot House Cab' Dodge in the shed on farm, (plus a doner AT4). Dad was all Ford, brother went GM, I just love the independent, weirdo functional raw performance thing, go figure?

I do a few things to make ends meet: work and shift cattle, hump hay, fix fences, mill timber on farms with my Lucas, plus work my own little spread.

Complementing all this I tow a table top, tipper trailer built by Woods of Tamworth, currently rated at 3.5t, e braked. A great piece of kit, as is the Lucas Mill.

I am flogging the crap out of my 98' Isuzu / Holden Rodeo. It is a great little 2t quad bike, she deserves a better life, more respect.

Scoping a suitably powered 4wd Diesel tug vehicle to support my various primary producer type roles, has me looking at v8 turbo diesel Toyota Cruisers.
Great package, yet.

Wow, how much money do they call!
This with a drive and styling not progressed since 1989.

My heart would rather have an old girl kept going forward, worked or tidied up perkins diesel etc.

I had two dead trucks in my driveway 18 months ago when I was offered an Inter AA120 4wd, and had to put 'happy wife, happy life' ahead of what I knew was a great little truck, needing a good home ... ahhhhh.

Since then, I have got my own farm, and can carry doner vehicles up the 'woo zarr'.

If you know of, have a vehicle, that may meet my needs, and heart felt want to keep an old girl out of the hands of those 'filthy scrappers', please get in touch.

Regards

Woodrow Phathom
pbhwoodrow@gmail.com

mine,s not for sale but happy to give you a few tips on what to look for , which diffs , transfers etc

Thanks SwampRat

I have followed up a few candidates, adverts and private leeds, over the last few months. One recently on Gumtree was only 500m from a good mates place in the Tweed Shire Northermost, NSW. Reputedly had a newer turbo diesel perkins and 6 speed. Able to be 'got straight to work'. No longer available when contacted, ahhh thank you Dorris Day 'que (kay) sera sera'.

It has been suggested, by the 'peanut gallery' that the front diff are 'made of crystal and shatter'. Hard to believe comming from an age when over engineering solved every thing, and the Dodge Power Wagon had just won WW2!

Keen to get an over view of your, and members experience with 4wd front ends in my target trucks.

Similalry, get opinions, ideas on improoooving hwy travel. 3 to 400km in a day, out and back from work site is a 'once a month at least'. This can be westward across flat country or NE up onto the New England plateu, rising from about 600m to 1100m above sea level. The bar bench seat and ride ain't an issue. Fuel, dollars and time are the issue. Time as, almost my own boss I can take, make; dollars and diesel, they are hard got!

I have a good left leg, just a few creeks, and cruntches from the knee (Rugdy is great, except when you get grey hair, and feel every hit all over again [go the swannies, go AFL]).

I am inclided toward a joey box / splitter box, for the rear drive. (First thinking is this may involve less 'molestation'). Reviewing an old Dodge Manual at lunch today, I suspect the 8 drive ratio yeilded from a splitter, could provide 5 to 6 usable gear selection combos, splitting H or L (including some seriously layed back over drive, just above stall revs).

The crawler gear ration in my AT4 at almost 7:1, envisaged with a 4wd, even with bigger Dia wheels, on the job will work great. As my 'in town' drive, the little AT4's 2nd (at about 3:1) gets to start us off the line. I nearly never striaghten the left arm, well accept to pat the dog, or cuddle the good wife.

Checking my telephone messages I do have a reply from SE Qld, re an old yellow fire truck. Petrol and with a heap of stuff on the back (usable, yet needing removal), I will follow it up.

Kind Regards and thanks for your support in following up my post

Woodrow Phathom

Get a V8 Landcruiser for work, get rid of the rodeo and get a 4WD inter or dodge(more likely inter as I can't say ive ever seen a 4WD dodge) and you'll be happier than a pig in.....

forget the v8 landcruiser unless you want to spent a lot of time & money workin on it , yes there where front diff issues , the single rear wheel trucks ie 1300 ,1310 ran a Dana 44 in the front , which are weak in the gears & would bend the axle tube with the weight of a diesel on them when worked hard , some of the duel rear wheel trucks also ran the Dana 44 , the one to look for is the Dana 70 they are much heavier & indestructable ,these were fitted to the later D1410,s, there are two issues with these diff,s , it is near impossible to get free wheeling hubs for , my current truck has original free wheel hubs , i made a set for my last truck , second issue is these diffs were only used on duel wheel trucks so means custom wheels if you want to run single wheels , i have a pair of 15 x 8 front rims spare to suite these diffs , my last truck i fitted a chev 6.2 diesel & a 10 speed mazda gearbox which was perfect in theory , about 1800rpm at 100 kph but i broke fifth gear about every 12 months , in the end i wrecked that truck & went to my current set up

I've got a C1300 4wd that needs a good home...

I bought the vehicle & removed the 6354 Perkins and t34 overdrive gearbox to repower my AB130. With 4.3 diff, joey and OD it'll now do 80kmh @ 1500rpm... with super low trailer reversing ratio thanks to the joey as well.

I have a hankering to keep the donor vehicle just in case I feel the need to make mine 4wd one day, but it'll be slower with the standard 4.88 gearing and presently I just don't need it.

Body is fairly good for it's age, a little rust but quite presentable. Factory heater, isri seat, steel tray & bullbar if you want... ex CFS vehicle originnally.

The previous owner loved it to bits & used it to haul a caravan. He kept a diary of all the things done on it, repack wheel brgs, brake linings, stainless wheel cylinders, spring shackles, reset springs, landcruiser shocks, heavy duty mountings etc

My next incarnation will see me install a Perkins Turbo engine, and if I get really carried away an Isuzu 6 speed for a taller OD. So the current NA Perkins & t34 will be up for grabs too. Engine is tired, probably has a busted ring set on one pot(?) but oil pressure is fine so a $600 kit would probably have it in fine form.

Anyhoo

Thanks Guys, Swamp Rat, 600 Dodge and Invested Energy

I believe the Rodeo has given me a big hint by blowing a head gasket. This has also consumed my wiggle space for taking on a project, for at least a few months.
So thanks invested energy for you offer, I shall have to chase you up when my wiggle space / cash returns.

The Rodeo is now slotted to become my on farm two ton quad bike, once patched up. I have an old 3 cylinder Ford 4000 tractor there to do any trailer tug work about the place.

A mate rang just after a recent Pickles auction with some leads on whole sale priced Cruiser v8 Diesels, Low k, ex govt fleet, which has me thanking 600 Dodge for some very simple and prophetic advice.

Swamp Rat very thankful for your input, very edduumukating. I shall be sniffing around for parts as suggested. I believe my small fleet needs a 'power wagon' of sorts and reckon this input is going to help a lot.

Cheers Guys

Woodrow Phathom

Hey Fellow Dodgie, past 'hcvc' Posters,

A late up date on my 'hcvc' related happenings:

a) I now own, drive, operate a Toyota v8 diesel ute as the farms first ride.
Got cheap from out west, mostly because no one else was interested.

b) And I have got hold of a '4wd Inter',
shortish wheel based tip truck,
via a mate in the 'tweed valley' of NSW.

Seemingly, yes good luck can happen.

The 4wd Inter's cab , as could be expected is completely rotted out.
If only I had a dry country Dodge donor cab or two to help with a restoration: oops, I do, yeah!
Just a grill panel and hood to gain.

Swapped Tweed Valley mate a vintage Honda 'pull start' ag bike; I earned, gained from tending a neighbours cattle herd for a year or so.
Cow are cool and my time tending them was enjoyed, the Honda and swap on, a 'barter bonus'.
Tweed Valley Mate has a crook hip, and kick starting brings him pain.
Amongst other 'income streams', he does some 'slashing' along roads etc.
The Honda is easily roped to tractor heading out from home, and provides a reportedly easy and enjoyable ride home.

I hope to restore, return 'Ike' the 4wd International some time in the next few years, to active service.

Once 'active', I envisage 'Ike' retaining light tipper status, (add a 'pal finger type lift' ), and 'Ike' proving the primary tow for my tandem axle tipper trailer: 'Nimitz'.
Nimitz 'bs' big and grey, built by local Tamworth fabricators 'Woods Trailers' to max out at 6t, is now down rated to 3.5t.

Back to Point: IKE's Restoration

Q1. Front Axle Input Shaft Angle,

Online information suggest these front axle are vulnerable / prone to breakage.
Primary observation suggests that the front axle is set up for a horizontal input angle. It seems acute, not at all tangential to an easy flow of drive from the transfer box.

What angle aught the rearward input of the front axle be set?


Q2. Diesel Engine Swap Options,

Heaps of Over-sea's ideas and experiences online.

What are the ideas and suggestions of 'hcvc', per a suitable, able (easy enough), diesel 'fit in' motor for my 'Ike' the International 4wd, late 1960s shape per Dodgy AT4?

Regards

Wood'ie Phathom

PS. I seem to have inspired, possibly triggered a mate to both step back from 'over working' ,
and follow a shared passion, treat an indulgence for old trucks / vehicles.

Since our meeting, in the past year or so, my mate has acquired, is restoring:

FJ ute,
'42 Thrift Master Chev Truck,
'72 Monaro,
'44 Chev flat tray (military spec) truck,
'52 Mack (MR) truck,

I can only comment on Q1. For normal style universal jointed shaft (cross uni or hookes joint) the two shafts should be parallel. In other words the pinion shaft on the diff should be parallel with the shaft on the transfer box. this is because of the angular speed variation Of the uni joints. This is also why they must be phased correctly. You must correctly align the yokes on your drive shaft if you have a slip joint that allows mis alignment.

Paul

Paul's pretty much on it on the drive line and uni's phase angles and phasing multiple tail shafts the uni angles must be equal to work right no mater what a pooftenth out will cause problems

easiest motor I would think would be 6354 Perkins

Paul