Wheel nuts and wheel changing

To avoid hijacking the good Samaritan thread I think there is enough potential discussion on wheels to start a separate thread.

I had a tyre place forced to replace two hubs on my Nissan Patrol ute. It cost them about $200 more than the 4 tyres.

With the tyres I bought a new set of chrome nuts. Patrols and Landcruisers have the same diameter stud but Nissan thread pitch is 1.25mm and Toyota 1.5mm. The wrong nuts will go on about 3 turns just with fingers before they bind.

I only picked it up when I spotted the clown doing the job with the rattle gun whirring away with the nuts stripped and spinning and just went on to the next one and didn't tell anyone. Unfortunately the studs were stripped along with the nuts.

Another incompetent thing you see in even the best tyre shops is they rattle the nuts up then make a great show of bringing out the torque wrench. 90% of the time they go around and first push goes "click" immediately and they walk proudly off.

Of course it will, you idiot, you have rattled the nuts up to twice the setting on the torque wrench!

I did go to a truck place recently and the bloke rattled the nuts up lightly then went and got the torque wrench. He was very good, and when he found a nut with no movement but an instant "click" he backed it off and re tightened properly.

Twice I have had Holden hub studs snapped on a trailer by rattle guns. Both times they fought against any rectification claiming prior damage despite the shiny break in the stud. They did eventually pay for new hubs which are only about $20 but it is a pain in the a... having to sit down and replace them. Replacement studs are available but by the time you pull the hub off, drive the old one out, drive the new one in (they are never fully tight the second time) the full replacement is the go. Also if they broke one are the others stretched or cracked?


Lang

A further comment on rattling up wheel nuts When I was racing cars could work out why i getting a long pedal after a few laps and we would remove the wheels after each session so took a while to pick up The studs would stretch and with a floating caliper we would get excessive pad knock off

I reckon the tyre places do the nuts up supertight on purpose ,so the owner has no hope of removing the wheel..........I remeber a guys Case backhoes ,every wheel stud on two backhoes had cracks in the threads caused by tyre fitters doing up the nuts with a 1" rattle gun............they only use Yutanis,that produce twice the torque of most other guns,and always use 150psi air...............then there is fat truck tyre fitters.......one I remember use to have his jeans so low ,half his bumcrack was always out,and he used to keep his mobile phone in there.....One fitter did a set of tubeless on a sheet of blue plastic,when he finished with the blaster ,blue plastic was stuck inside some of the beads........didnt worry him.

Geoffb,
If I remember correctly Holden had vibration issues with some of the Commodores, turned out incorrect wheel nut torque was the cause. Distorting the disc's. Would have had the same effect as yours with the brake pedal as well.
Cheers Steve

Have seen all that Lang as well as them fitting wheel nuts on back to front, taper facing out.
After a few miles the hex nut buries in the wheel, only way to get wheel off is to snap the studs.

Browny
m80

RE: When I was racing cars could work out why i getting a long pedal after a few laps

Sounds like driver error 2 me

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

If u're the leader of the pak ........ dunno why U need brakes

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

cya

I think early Commers had wheelnuts with taper faces both ends...........not so muc for those who couldny figure it out,but to give the nuts double service life..........When I worked on the deathtrap coaches ,some of the nuts were so badly worn the wheels would work against the face of the hub,no matter how tight they were.