Today I started to remove some rust from Lorry, our FC144 1991 Hino. Last rego check the man that says yes/no pointed it out and said not again next year. IT is in the bottom of the "A" pillar and I agree it must get done so I started on it today. I have made 2 sections so far that will go into place once I cut away the bad nasty stuff but to get at it better I will remove the door plus this gives me the chance to replace the worn top door hinge, already a stock item, and put that in place. Next there is some awfully fierce bubbling going on under the stick on HINO badge on the door. I used a scraper to remove the badge safely scratched off the bloody silcon that was there and all the double sided tape which was possibly the biggest cause of the rust as it would hold water behind the badge. So I have ground that all back to good metal and hit it up with some Bondall Rust Converter which works a treat. Tomorrow I will prep it a bit more and wipe some filler into that and get it in primer / filler.
On the passengers side the front corner panel has a hole in it suitable for a driving light to fit, well around 2" round so I have sent out some emails looking for a replacement panel otherwise this too will have to be cut and welded up. I did take some pics so will put them up tomorrow. Also a pair of hub caps found their way home here and I don't know what truck they would have fitted in the past but they now, with some alterations to the mounting bracket fit nicely on the rear duals.
It always seem that every time you start doing a "little" job on a vehicle, you find ten others that must be done, turning the little task into a huge job. Keep up the good work, Cobba, you are a man of many talents!
I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,
If you are making patches, a punch and flange air tool is a great investment. Puts a nice edge on so you can lap weld instead of butt and helps reduce the distortion while welding.
Full weld or spot type weld and then lead the joint.
Thanks guys for the support.
As for many talents it is just a case of 'have a go ya mug!'
However, I did start to do panel beating when I left school and got tired of being taught to be a plastic surgeon not a panel beater so I dropped that and went into earth moving for a lone time, then the tyre industry followed by what I do now, blinds and curtains.
That hole punch and flange maker is a ripper but all too late for me now as I have already made the sections to be welded in place soon. I need to find out what colour White is on the 1991 FC144 Hino, does anyone know. So far I cannot find a plate attached anywhere with this info on it. When you use Mr Google he offers up so many variants but how do you know which is right?
Today I finished the repair on the door where the Hino badge was attached using thick double sided tape and it appears this is what caused the rust, water trapped behind the badge and the tape on the bottom would hold water inside. SO far I have had 2 replies for a replacement panel but unfortunately both have no stock of this model corner panel. Will contact Bretts Truck Spares again in a minute and quiz him on the panels and paint code.
Contacted Hino Australia in hope of an answer and to my very pleasant surprise they replied with in 30 minutes.
Colour on Lorry is Clear White and is a Dulux formula #35869. So hopefully on Wednesday when I'm in town I can get a pressure pack made up to cover up the patches until in the future a respray will happen.
Dont know how much of the cab you are painting, if its only small areas maybe just take a sample to bunnings and they can computer match it, not sure if they can shove it in a spray can or not but some proper paint places can
Will give a good match and allow for fade etc
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
For now, I am only going to touch up the rust repairs I have done and about to do so a single pressure pack will make it look more reespectable. It may not be a good colour match but with a polish up and a touch up it will look better than have patches all over it. There are not too many bits that can be taken off for a colour match apart from the corner panels. Maybe I should take the door in and see the look on their faces.
With no corner panel turning up it just may be that panel that goes to town later for the colour match and after I do the rust hole on it. Much prefer a panel that is rust free as this has a few double panels behind it and rolled edges that are hard to treat for a long term result. Time will tell.
Bunnings Taree dont do pressure packs and don't have the ability to colour match automotive colours even with the Dulux code. Autobarn came to the rescue so that is sorted plus they wrote a cross reference number down for me as well.
So the next step in this episode while waiting a little longer for any panels that might turn up I started on the door trims. The originals have warped due to water ingress from no plastic on the inside before fitting the trim in place, it really is there for a reason. Initially I was going to make new masonite backs and reuse the trim but on side has holes in it so new vinyl will be bought and it wont be 2 tone as the original but rather a grey colour this time to match the fancy hood lining I stuck in place some time back. So with some odd type of fabricated timber I started to make the first 'card' and then I can glue the sponge in place then when the vinyl arrives I will finish that one off. I also had to buy some new upholstery plugs that clip to the card then push into the holes and they are ready to go.
So I might try and drop the door off to give me more room to weld up the "A" pillar next chance I get.