So I was gunna help a mate, & cart some 6m iron etc. Truck has been parked in the shed since hay carting in November. Find the batteries, crank her up, prompt no SYB start by her standards, bugger ..... clutch a bit NQR, remembered it went dry carting hay, topped up reservoir back then, got it working but inclined to fade if held down too long..... no sign of fluid leak, reservoir still holding fluid. Drove out of the shed went to stop, pedal hard, push harder, clunk, pedal normal. Little drive up the road, cab full of smoke, just drifting up around the engine cover, lovely blue in the sunlight.... smells like oil.... window down, into high 5, radio shouting, who cares......
Ok, I enjoyed the moment, booked mate for tomorrow morning, backed truck into shed..... SHTTTT... clutch down not stopping, brakes on stall... no damage to the treasure in the back of the bay..... ok need to bleed the clutch..... fluid all over the floor.... wtf....
Bit of a looky looky..... brake fluid, the dust cover is full, obviously the 8 odd months and a bit of moisture the seal on the plunger or something has got rusted in and busted when I first braked.
The question. Do I need to take the whole reservoir out/off or can I diconect the pedal link and pull the plunger out the front? And if I did, can I replace o rings or seals and fix the problem. I cancelled my mate,
And should I be bothered about the low angle the clutch piston appears to be running in? Other than needing a bleed it works fine, I installed the master back in 2008 or shortly after.
Clutch cylinders are both ally .....need new rubber ,at least ...think they are 3/4 " bore .....the PBR master is common enough ,still fitted to caravans as an over ride,seen them on special at the boat place for around $15,slave is probably special ,but should be common enough.
A question before I actually do anything.... (not allowed in the shed while house job not finished)... when I take the brake master cylinder off I assume it will be accompanied by much puddling of brake fluid on the floor, and then subsequently re fit a the master cylinder, will it be necessary to bleed all the brake lines or will the fluid hold in the supply line and bubble back into the master cylinder.
Why do I ask? Do I need to look for a fancy brake bleed gismo, I cant imagine pumping the pedal and topping the fluid to shunt air nearly 6 metres down the truck. Or is my ignorance and inexperience on show here.
Frustration with brake bleeding was on another thread, and as those 'bleeders' on ebay rely on vacuum pulling the fluid through rather than pushing it back up to the master, might be more trouble than they are worth. Sticking to the traditional 2 person way - one on the pedal and the other opening and closing nipple on the drums- isn't all that bad, even on long wheelbase.
Trouble with those vacuum bleeders is if you open the nipple too far it stops bleeding and sucks air from behind the nipple , and the little hand pump vacuum pump is just that ... I bought a pressure pump for a $150 and comes with 7 caps so hopefully one will fill
Hydraulic brakes rely on a bit of residual pressure in the system to seal the rubber cups........this disappears when parked up for a couple of months ,and often one wheel cylinder will leak down a tyre.......Doesnt mean anything is wrong ,and just driving the truck might cure the problem....or not........I wont drive an old Inter with single line brakes any more.....at least with most pommy trucks,the handbrake is effective ,which IH aint....Only exception is the army ACCOs ,which actually have pommy brakes..The handbrake will lock the wheels ..
Thankyou gents, John boosted my confidence, and Steve my hopes. It did self bleed when I bought it after 10 years in a paddock, topped up the empty reservoir and pumped away, brakes kept working until now.... another 12 years later. Spanner time this weekend if I am good.