Turbo project

Have a look around for an older EFi computer on eBay or similar.

You don't need super hi-tech for what you are doing.

I know when I started playing with EFi it did my head in but I wouldn't go back.

Detonation is the big nasty and our Lancia has a supercharger and mechanical Fuel injection via Kuglefischer pump.

We ended up go EFi on it as the slide throttle arrangement dumped more air in the rear two cylinders leaning them out and destroying the engine. At $40,000 for an engine rebuild the cost of the EFi was nothing.

Do some homework Before spending more money.

I would think a creative person could fit ans EFi system off a Falcon or Holden and make it work.

A mate had a Camaro with a blow through system on it. He explained to me what changes had to be made to the carby for it to work as a blow through set up, but I forgot already what the changes were. I know it all worked well as it put out 1001hp on the dyno and it gave him 1ltr/klm fuel usage.

jeffo wrote: Mate, I’m way too buggered these days for any of those fun times.
Regarding the low boost you mentioned..........A quick run down.
Your engine can be considered as some sort of massive restriction, air goes in one end and out the other.
Fit a turbo and the “out” end is instantly clogged up, so you have to push more air in the “in” end just to break even.
Thus is why super chargers can run low boost, no exhaust restriction.
Also why selecting the A/R of the exhaust housing is so important for high hp applications.
You’ll find manufacturers offer a small A/R housings to give the car low to medium grunt, but she’ll choke at big rpm.
Fit a larger A/R housing and she’ll be sluggish down low but go nuts up high.
Hence the modern use of variable vane turbos in just about everything.
So from this little story, I think you’ll be looking at bigger airflow, somewhere in the 10-15psi boost range.
Unfortunately higher boost means heat so she would need an intercooler.
These are just guessed numbers but the sort of info you have to consider when designing your pipework, hose clamps etc. They blow off from the heat at pretty moderate boost.


I be attached the turbo I bought GT35
.

a A/R .63. A/R. 70
What every one should be aware of is I have no interest in dropping burn outs or seeing how fast it is in the quarter mile or 0-100 time , I’ve done 350ks and that includes driving it home , anything over 2500-2800 is all I’m comfortable with, the engine sounds “busy “ I’m not used to driving a petrol engine so
I’ll be happy if it runs for a start, unfortunately I don’t have the money to intercool it or get EFI at the moment , I’ll be buying it in a couple of months, I’ll plumb it now and allow for v-bands so i can swap out 1 set of pipes for another.
I’ve spent very close to 2kand that’s just enough to put the plumbing for both inlet and exhaust and air cleaner and if you guys reckon I’m wasting my time at the moment I’m still going to mock it up and maybe use v bands with the right piping for both N/A and turbo just have to have it as a ah-la natural until I get some sort of EFI I guess

I got the exhaust piping and muffler outside to roughly work out what else I need to start , the piping covered in plastic are 3 inch,the rest of the pipieng is 2.5” . I’ve got 4 inch aluminium piping for the air cleaner coming and some silicone hoses For the intake side , also got an array of clamps coming ., Sorry about the orientation of the pictures , I can stand on my head and they still are side ways
..... and whatever else I’ve forgot about...

Have you got the oil supply and drain sorted?
Check if it needs a restrictor on the oil feed. Ball bearing cartridges typically need a restrictor.
Drain back to sump can be a bit tricky.

I’m putting a cross into the journal supply running along the side of the block and the spare engine has a sump with a return bung in it as it ran a air compressor which I still have , I might put it on my engine too, change that dangerous cable park brake, a spring brake may be a better choice and whatever else can be changed, maybe the air over hydraulic brake chamber off a 1610a , I bought a oil supply kit and I haven’t had a good look to see how big the fittings are, no ball bearings on this turbo ... I got the budget model lol
The return will be ok as long as it’s a straight ish return, I think if it builds up pressure the oil backs up and runs backwards out of the seals and pours out white smoke, that is supposed to come off the wheels... Not coming out the exhaust

Nothing wrong with a bush bearing turbo.
Drain sounds good.

My Cummins has a 7/8 (22mm) drain pipe.
Seem to remember the DD's had a similar size.
Cheers Steve.

Got a bit more to the puzzle, clamps of various sizes and some aluminium pipes for the inlet side and just waiting on some silicone joiners and steel for the exhaust side.

Rattail,

This is my understanding.

The oil feed to the turbo has to be medium pressure 45 psi at full load, low flow (I think). There is usually a restriction somewhere.

The oil drain has to be large and allow the oil from the cartridge to dribble down back to the sump and higher than the oil level.

When the turbine is spinning, the bearings rotate at half the turbine speed. They float on the oil. Inside the cartridge, the oil is a great big frothy mess. Hence, why the drain has to be big. The froth drains back.

You don't want high pressure or high flow oil in the cartridge because it will flood and then push back past the "piston rings" (seals in the turbo) and into the manifolds.