Raising the Roof - making a tilt cab of a Karrier Bantam

Thats a very short wheel base , or a lot shorter than I imagined it to be

Steel and aluminum corrode pretty badly when touching Im pretty sure so maybe not a good idea to cover in steel plate

Dunno, some one smarter than me will be able to give you the proper answer there

Paul

Mrs,
Apparently theres this product called " Sikaflex Pro",which comes in either a cartridge like a silastic compound, or in a can which can be brushed on, you paint both surfaces, e.g. Alloy and steel, and then clamp/ bolt the two surfaces together.
I have a tube of it here to test on the alloy, the engineer bloke who does all of my good welding, ( as opposed to my cocky-poo), uses it all the time putting steel frame chassis under alloy tipping trailers.
When I asked him about electrolysis, he reckons it has been used for years and will outlast me!

Can only go on what I've been told, only thing with it has to be spotlessly clean!

The original front hurdle was made out of steel, bolted to the alloy floor bearers, there was some corrosion evident, most likely had never been treated with anything, left out in the weather for who knows how long!

Be interesting to hear if anyone here on the forum has ever used this compound!
Dave_64

Sikaflex® PRO is a 1-component, moisture-curing, elastic joint sealant. Sikaflex® PRO is designed for movement and connection joints on porous substrates as well as indoor and outdoor general sealing applications. From the SIKA web site.

We all know the sheeting on the side of bus bodies is all glued on now with Sika products and a number of high class car manufacturers now glue many panels and fittings with similar products. SIKA have a good web site and I have talked to their techs who are only too willing to help (I glued all the ply panels on my 1915 Willys Overland van with a SIKA product after talking to them)

It has been the go-to product in the marine industry for 50 years.

Lang

Yes SIKA have a wide range of fantastic products from sealers to adhesives and providing you select the right one it WILL work. Two words that was used in the initial comment was that it is to be "clamped" together. That is very important so that it achieves full bond strength and the other word was "clean"

If the extra weight is required then I would do this after the weigh bridge for rego is done.

Completely forgot that I hung my backside from SIKA glue. Rebuilding the 1927 AVRO Avian at Caboolture. Fully wood construction fuselage and wings stuck together with SIKA two part epoxy glue. Never a moment's problem and the aircraft is still flying 25 years later in the USA.



You will note Araldite sponsor sticker (Ceiba-Geigy). They came on board in UK after I pranged the aircraft and had to stick it together again. Same spec glue as the SIKA original build.

Who's the young good looking stud in the photo?

Is he your son?

Just looked in the mirror absolutely no difference from 1997.

Lang wrote:

Just looked in the mirror absolutely no difference from 1997.

How much for the mirror?

Bloke on Youtube shows a rear panel over the wheel arch rusted out, repairing it by cutting a square out as per normal, overlapping the new piece and glueing and clamping the two pieces together.

He then uses those "pins" that you put in with a device not unlike a 'pop' rivetter, to give added strength, doesn't weld it though, waits for the glue to set, and then simply dresses the slight gap between the body and the new guard with what he calls 'bondo', which seems to be a generic term for any poly body filler, same as you would had it been welded!
Rubs it back with a 'cheese grater' type of rasp, finishes it off with a very fine poly coating again rubbing it back to achieve a feathered appearance that you cant even pick.

This particular bloke doesnt use any type of primer or undercoat in the preparation at all, until its time to prime it. Just straight over bare, clean metal! He does stress however, that you go over the whole area EVERY time you add a bit of bog and rub it back, with rubbing alcohol or thinners on a clean rag. Either that or Acetone.

Turned out a very professional looking job.
Dave_64

This is the spare jigger I bought a while ago to rob for parts.
Already started taking the gas axe/plasma/angle grinder to the body, eldest son,Shagnasty wants the sides for a retaining wall out his block.

Toying with the idea of maybe salvaging just the floor and chassis rails, same size as the rebuild, lot of practice welding floor in, only reason for using it is that it's quite a heavy body and will throw a bit of weight over the drive.

OR, may revert to original plan of just using the chassis rails and tipper swivel points, see how it looks when I rip the body off.

Other than that, just been tinkering a bit, want to swap the brakes over in their entirety, these ones SUPPOSED to have been done up before it went into storage inside the container.

Either way, won't be much left over, just the basic chassis, cupla steering boxes.
Bloke who bought the other cab has expressed an interest in it to make a Rat Rod out of it, says he's got a V6 Commode engine and auto he can drop in it.
Dave_64