Roadranger questions

IHScout, if i have this right, you have shifted the clutch cross shaft from the top position, and put it in new holes you had drilled so it is now in the bottom position. I am thinking that maybe now with the fork pointing up instead of down, the offset of the two key ways in that shaft are now out of whack making your fork lean back instead of forward.

I'm afraid i am not very good at explaining what i am trying to say, but i wonder if looking from the operating end of the shaft, is the fork now pointing more toward 11 o'clock instead of 1 o'clock? And if so, is that due to the offset in the two key ways now working against you?

I don't have hands on experience with this, i am just going by the picture in the parts book which seems to show the key ways for the outer clutch lever and inner fork as not being inline with each other, but having some offset, and i am wondering if there might be 2 positions/2 ways that the fork can be fitted to the shaft? Either an extra key way in either the shaft of the fork, or just by flipping the fork on the shaft?

The book says both keys are Woodruff keys, of the same size.

Just thinking out loud.

I still think the throwout levers are too deep in the pressure plate assy..........its been a while,but I d be reasonably sure that where they are ,the levers are going to hit the hub of the disc ..... adjustment is by the slotted inner nuts which are LH and RH thread,so one turn moves the lever quite a bit......the inner slotted adjuster is locked up by the big hex nut .

180wannabe the rod and clutch lever are out of original IH bell housing and were bottom mounted there, so I'm pretty sure they're the right orientation. You're right though that the keyways are offset.

wee-allis and Cobba a spacer may be the way to go. Cobba, I like your idea of mocking something up to test the theory.

John.K thanks for the heads up on the throwout lever adjustment. I've not played much with clutches, so I wouldn't have thought of that. Also a goo idea to cut a new keyway in the lever, but it won't come off without at least partially removing the gearbox, but I'm resigned to having to pull it out again whatever I do. I will be able to do it in my sleep soon.

Had the same problem with mine. Bell housing source unknown but with the cross shaft in the lower position. I have 2 boxes and the throwout carriers are both different lengths but neither worked.
Ended up with a spacer behind the TOB carrier and works fine.
Cheers Steve

Well I mocked up a spacer out of 17mm plywood just to check that was enough to get appropriate clutch action happening with room for adjustment. It all seems to work ok, but of course I can't test it properly with engine running to make sure it completely disengages the clutch.

Next step is to pull the gearbox again and get a proper space made up. I think I'll also fabricate a new clutch arm to go on the outside of the box so that I can allow more clearance and therefore greater adjustment should I have the measurement wrong again.

That looks like the shorter version of the carrier. Apart from trying to find the longer versions RR also had various input shaft sizes and think the carrier bore changed to suit the larger front bearing retainer.
A good machine shop should be able to make up a sleeve to press on where the bearing currently sits then press the bearing onto the new sleeve

Cheers Steve

Thought I'd update on this project. Just to refresh you memory, I installed a 13 speed (RTO6613) in my D-Line only to discover the clutch release-bearing wouldn't go forward far enough to disengage the clutch. After further research, I concluded that the bearing carrier was the wrong one. It appears in cleaning up the shed I'd accidentally thrown out the correct bearing carry and hung onto one that came from the truck that the RR came out of! Anyway, I'm hot on the trail hunting down the correct carrier. In the pic below the one on the right is what is currently in the box and the one on the left is what it should look like

in the mean time I've pulled the gear box for the third time, and given that this probably won't be the last time (Murphy's law) I've doing a few things to make it easier. The first is modify a Super Cheap RTV jack into a a custom gearbox jack. I picked the RTV jack because it was cheap ($99 at the time - now $149), way cheaper than a proper transmission jack, and rated for 620 kg, so easily strong enough for the job. I've made a proper cradle to mount on the jack to keep the gear box straight and stable. The only problem with my design is it didn't go down quite low enough to fit the bell housing out under the chassis rails, but I got around that by lifting the back with the engine crane enough to tilt the bell housing under the rail. Too easy.

The only improvement I need to make is to add something to control the little swivel wheels at the back because the jam up and don't help when you want to push the gearbox in a straight line. The next job is to weld in some new nuts to the mounting point where the existing captured nuts have come adrift, and clean up the threads on the others.

When a farm tractor is spilt a lot of people make up a set of rails to roll the jacks on to keep it all in line

And of course the long bolts with heads cut off or all thread all help to keep things lined up

Paul

IHScout wrote:

, I'm hot on the trail hunting down the correct carrier. In the pic below the one on the right is what is currently in the box and the one on the left is what it should look like

If you can Borrow the correct one for a While..? any self respecting Machinist should be able to knock a Copy up for , I would think..!

Using some channel to run the trolley along does help but you have to get the gearbox in from the side first then onto the channel. Long all threads do help but something I read recently in a tractor mag was to use 2 small ratchet straps. You can control left n right movement and move it slowly at a pace you are comfortable with.