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Rolling an edge on curved steel

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2 years 10 months ago #222525 by Dave_64
Question for the think tank. Have a set of mudguards that are still attached to the cabin that I had to trim about 18 inches off where they drop down to wards the floor behind the steer axle. Intend repairing the removed sections and fixing them to a bar and mount them similar to how they mount mudguards on say a tanker trailer. Had to do this to clear the fuel tank when cabin is tilted. Left them with a sharp edged finish and have to either fold them or roll them somehow. They are both curved and arced and as I said, still attached to the main cabin, so cant put them in any sort of rolling machine. Thoughts? Thanks, Dave_64

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2 years 10 months ago #222527 by Mrsmackpaul
Do you want the edge floded right over sharp or a gentle beed type of thing ?

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging

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2 years 10 months ago #222530 by Dave_64
Thought along the lines of bending one eighth rod to shape, then trying to fold the metal over the rod to form a bead That'd be a pain to work because of the curvature. A flatter sharper folded edge would do as well.

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2 years 10 months ago #222534 by Oilman
Could you get some light pipe of the right diameter rolled to the same curvature, slit it down the middle and weld to the guard?

1975 Atkinson, 180HP 6LXB Gardner, RTO910, 34000lb Rockwell on camelback
The following user(s) said Thank You: Dave_64, PaulFH, Tassie Dan

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2 years 10 months ago #222536 by mammoth
I would go with the slitted tube route. It would have the benefit of adding rigidity and not disturbing the curve of the guards. As an alternative you could glue some plastic tube or edging strip. Make a feature of it and use 'pinchweld with a profile that overlaps the gap and hopefully stops mud splashing through.
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2 years 10 months ago #222537 by Sarge
Like oil man said, but use that bit of eighth rod you were going to bend and weld it along the edge instead of pipe, you do very good weld work, hardly a challenge.

Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.

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2 years 10 months ago #222541 by Dave_64
Sarge!
I have to fess up!
I am NOT a welders backside! I subbie all my welding out to a local workshop, bloke and his son.
Both top notch welders, I used to tack what I wanted done with the mig or even the old stick welder, but they have requested that when I bring my work over, I clamp it together and supply a drawing, got sick of cleaning up my cocky-s--t welding!
Design most of my own stuff, cutting out etc, but one thing I will NEVER be is a welder. Got my own mig, tig, gas, stick welders, been practising for over 40 odd years, still useless.
Thats why I'm also subbying out the rust in the cab.
Dave_64

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2 years 10 months ago #222542 by Zuffen
Dave,

Smart move recognise your limits and work (almost) within them.

My welding is crap as well and I've recently discovered it's down to my Multifocal glasses.

The welds look great without them.
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2 years 10 months ago #222543 by Mrsmackpaul
Ok I feel tnis is really simple to fix

Get a old 1/2 bolt or piece of 1/2 rod and then grab a Jenny Craig cut of disc (those real thin buggers for your grinder) and cut a slot to the depth you want the bend

Slip it over the metal and just bend it slightly and slowly work your way along

Maybe a few degrees at a time and you might well be surprised at just how neat a bend you can get with out any welding or kinks

Break it up into at least 1/2 a dozen bends or more, little bits at a time

Remember I dunno two tenths of SFA about stuff all

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging

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2 years 10 months ago #222545 by Dave_64
Ah, think I got it! Use it like one of those tools like tying up fencing wire?
But instead of a hole, cut the slot across the body of the bolt and lever it over?
Go along and crimp it with a pair of multigrips or vise grips maybe?
Thanks, Mrs. Give it a try on the bits of lower rear guards I've already removed.
Dave

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