Dumbass question(again!)

Getting a bit realistic for me, pack up toys and back to the pram!

If it was from else where it would be hanging off the R-Send.

Even more dumbass questions! (I have an untapped amount of 'em!)
Recently acquired a reasonably straight alloy tray top at the right price for the Karrier project (see attached).
Wants very little work to fit on the chassis, main thing is to shorten it about 12" lengthwise, width is close enough to original.
Have to remove the bent hurdles, and the front rack, all bolted on.
The original tipping body sat on a couple of 2" (50mm) hardwood bearers, the swivel point at the rear attached to the tapered section at the extreme rear of the rails, hydraulic ram positioned the front and there were two pieces of flat with a slight outwards taper to guide the steel body onto the hardwood bearers. again simply bolted to the outside of the chassis rails, vertically.
As I'm going to use the alloy tray as a straight fixed one (but leaving provision if I ever want to male a tipping bed out of it), once I shorten it to the required length, I have to narrow the rails where they sit on the hardwood bearers roughly 100mm each side so they line up with the chassis.
The rails that are currently on the alloy tray are also alloy "H" section. I intend leaving them in situ, bit of extra strength for the floor, (they are bolted to the bed of the tray, not welded).
Wondering if it would be simpler to just make up the two extra rails out of steel, say 4X2 channel and then bolt them to the tray floor.
I am aware of the electrolisis element but figure by the time that happens I'll be well and truly gone. Do have some old conveyor belt here, wouldn't be too much effort to cut a couple of strips and insert them between the hardwood and new rails.

What would be the ruling on how to fix the new rails, be they either steel or alloy, to the chassis, here in Victoria, anyone know?
It would be a simple matter to have "U" bolts made up to correct length and I dont know if it would matter whether they face up or down, (reckon that if they faced upwards would be easy enough to slide the plates across between the underside of the tray and the hardwood bearers).
If limited space could always install the "U" bolts facing downwards BEFORE bolting the new rails to the floor, would mean that the plates and nuts would be pretty low, always a chance of belting your head on them. if working underneath.
There would obviously be a MINIMUM size of "U" bolts and how many each side you would require, I know I can buy either 16 or 20 mm diameter bolts off the shelf, chassis rails are only 5" (125mm) deep,X 2" (50mm) wide. plus the height of the bearers and wooden runners, all up height around 12".
The alloy tray isn't all that old, and as I said, the original rails were simply bolted to the floor,
Are "U" bolts legal? Would imagine so.
Don't want to over complicate things (like I usually do) in case I ever get around to re installing the tipping hoist thereby making a tipping tray, kept all the swivel brackets and bars off the original steel body (simply rotted away and NWR).
Remembering this is only a "toy" and won't be carrying weight usually.
Any ideas ?
Thanks, Dave_64

.Something like this ...............

.

.................Billy..................

Yep, got that one sorted thanks, Billy P.
May have to engineer something for the exhaust if I go vertical, at the moment simply pointing out in front of the N/S rear axle.
Dave

All new bodies have to be fitted with plates and U bolts are banned. Same for all states. Someone will chime in with the link to govment web site showing engineering diagrams. So, your tray is how you bought it 20 years ago, right, wink. For the size of chassis and tray 16mm (5/8") would be heaps, flat at the bottom to match chassis rail and have spacer between the flanges of the chassis rail to stop it getting squashed.

mammoth wrote:

All new bodies have to be fitted with plates and U bolts are banned. Same for all states. Someone will chime in with the link to govment web site showing engineering diagrams. So, your tray is how you bought it 20 years ago, right, wink. For the size of chassis and tray 16mm (5/8") would be heaps, flat at the bottom to match chassis rail and have spacer between the flanges of the chassis rail to stop it getting squashed.

No there NOT...

www.nhvr.gov.au/files/201901-0631-vsb6-s...-j-body-mounting.pdf

Thanks for posting the link so we have it from the horses mouth. U bolts ..... "May not be endorsed". As an example my 5 ton Isuzu was previously registered as a chiller and I put a tray on it. First time over a bridge (in NSW) 18 mths ago on a wet night the scalie was under it with a torch checking the mounts, all good as I had mostly plates. Depends who you get on the day I guess but best not to be in a position where you are arguing the toss with the bloke who has made his mind up and has the last say.

When I did the tray swap on the sandblasters new truck,I used the old ubolts from the old truck ,which belonged to the tray anyway......the private inspection guy made me weld the tray to the chassis front and rear...........and he probably wouldnt have passed the ubolts if Col wasnt giving him $300 for the safety certificate.

It looks like an old Alcan style tray.