AT4 68 Dodge 775

Put the gears in neutral,and get someone to flip the button up and down........if you twist the tailshaft ,it will spin free between the clunks of the change working......if nothing is happening,take the lille side plate off the diff change motor,and see if anything is happening......the chamber should br full of light oil,if its smells of diff oil,likely the diaphragm is torn.....diff oil will make the change sticky.....no oil will will jam it up.............When it changes ,the electric motor can wind up the spring ,and then the spring will change the diff when load comes off the drive.......So the nut on the wormshaft must go up and down full travel,or the electrric switch behind wont work......There is also a big current breaker to stop the motor burning out.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationDaniel

The diff change is about half a gear jump (hence the term splitter) and should be noticeable. With the truck stopped and power on just push the button up and down. If you do not hear a clunk (or electrical click click if it is stuck) it is not working.

Should only be one of two problems. I got a rebuild kit from Truckline with all the two speed innards including electrical contacts and a monkey on a stick for $90. Took about 15 minutes to pull apart and rebuild without removing the unit from the diff housing. As John says it is protected and I believe the electric motor itself is rarely the problem. If it is they are also available. Wagga Tractor used to carry the kits but if they no longer do they should be able to put you straight.

The other one is the gearstick switch and these are available on line. Here is a USA supplier but they are common here.


Of course you should do a wire continuity check from switch to rear axle before pulling anything apart.

Lang

Here is the 2nd one. Stashed at Dads place for now.

Daniel

When you upload the photos you have to go down and click "insert" under each one or "insert All" at the top to get them to come up full size in your message. We can click on your thumbnails to get them but much better if you do it with your message.

lang

Hi All, What is the best way to remove the glass? Any tricks or just keeping working the rubber with a knife till its free? Is it possible to change the gear ratio in the gear box? I have just changed my muncie gear box ratio wondering if something similar could be done to the trucks gear box. Cheers!!

For both questions a bit more detailed information will help.
Type of windscreen rubber, does it have an insertion piece to lock the screen in place or not. A picture also helps a lot.
What make and model truck, gearbox, how many gears in it and so on. What are you hoping to achieve. Can the diff ratio be change to give you what you are looking for?
The more info we have to work with the better.

If the rubber is gunna be replaced just use a sharp Stanley knife blade

Or pull the locking rubber out (think they call it a key) and it should push outwards
I would use a second person to help catch it and take your time

No metal screw drivers or that type of thing, they are chip easy along the edge

Paul

I got a NOS rubber for an Inter ....there is a split going round just above the sealing lip on the outside ......looks like it might have a filler piece,but I dont know,on account of never using it.......simpler to buy another truck......i do know the laminated screens are very fragile putting them in.

Thanks for the replies. I am getting the whole cab blasted so I'll go steady steady with the glass removal. I have got a complete seal kit for the cab so hopefully nothing breaks.

I hope the cab is as good under the paint after the blaster has done his job.