Greetings. I took those photos so that when training up the young fella there can be NO misunderstandings on the timing marks- an easy reference in the build book. A lot easier to refer to than the diagram in the manual. Also explained to him that the factory can stuff you around and put the timing marks on the backside of the Idler gear- trap for young players that one as the Idler gear will get clamped up tight against the endplate bolts when the flywheel housing is bolted on and prevent the engine from turning so I took photos of the Idler gear to show the differences from right and wrong- there is a larger boss on the backside of the gear so when the flywheel housing is installed you will still be able to rotate the engine, which is what you want. Pete
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Thank you very much for all the info overlander, you clearly know Detroits well! And that is one beautifully presented engine.
I took this apart a while ago and hadn’t thought about which way the idler should go - I would’ve just assumed timing marks were on the front! I think I’ve heard you change injector heights when advancing the timing - if so from the values in the table you posted above that the 305 hp rated engine (I’m sure that’s what mine is) uses standard timing from factory? And the 275 and 320hp ones are advanced?
Wedgetail- you will see on the photo of the option plate posted earlier that it states the cam timing- if your engine has an option plate it should have the same info plus the injector height setting. If your option plate has been misplaced then if you give the model number of your engine to someone with access to the Detroit website/parts etc - maybe a dealer then they should be able to shed some light on how your engine was built. The timing was advanced on certain era engines to coax more horsepower. If the engine is only to be used in a show truck I'd go standard and put non turbo pistons - you don't really need the power, just noise and a bit of coal. That'd be about the best I can do. Pete
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