Volvo FL10

G'day Legends, 

Call me crazy, but I have just bought a 1986 Volvo FL10 in an 8x4, Tilt Tray Configuration and it has come with its own issues, mostly that it has been modified by the previous owner. My main issue is that occasionally it will get hot and start spitting water back out of the filler. Its only done it twice in the last 5000kms of owning the truck and once it cools down, refill the coolant, the issue can't be replicated. My thoughts are either the Water Pump failing or the compressor is pressurising the head. What are your thoughts. Truck details and photos below. Cheers

1986 Volvo FL10 
13sp Road Ranger Box
8x4 - Tilt Tray 
TARE: 12460
GVM 28000
GCM: 65000

 

The Viets next to my yard had all sorts of trouble with a Volvo ,back to Volvo service several times ............I spotted the fan was free wheeling on the rubber hub .................not a viscous drive ,obviously.

Thermostat occasionally sticking?

Probably best Swishman doesn't reply on this one.

Maybe a cracked block- I drove a 1617 Merc from Egypt to Kenya and it was doing the same. In Addis Ababa I went to the Merc dealership to ask for clues- 2 German fellas there tried to help but the engine would'nt misbehave when they came with me for a burn around Addis. Happy to get back in my Leyland Freighter when I got to Nairobi. The truck had a cracked block. I hope you don't find your engine has that problem. On the Mercs you could lock the viscous fan but that didn't help.

Coolant being pushed out can be head or block cracks, or at best head gasket. Hope not liners.
Notice when put to work and temp rises.
Good luck in finding the cause.

Twice in 5,000km then immediately correcting itself makes a permanent failure like crack or head gasket pretty strange. What were the circumstances of the overheating?

If the temp rises very slowly it usually means the radiator core is blocked inside and needs rodding out


Paul

Just Googled some questions. Seems a badly seated or bad spring (or not tightened fully) on a radiator cap will give the appearance of blow out. The lack of sealing pressure will of course cause it to boil up to 14 degrees earlier depending on the cap rating. Could explain the mysterious once-off happenings?

Just looking at the easy fixes first.

 A mix of 50/50 coolant and water boils at around 220 degrees. That same mix at 16 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure boils at approximately 250 degrees. And the boiling point increases 2-3 degrees for each additional psi of pressure in the system. Unfortunately putting anti-freeze in the water reduces its heat transfer ability by 15%, an engine doing the same work is going to get considerably hotter than plain water so you lose most of the higher boiling point benefit. The pressure is the thing that does the heavy lifting in preventing boiling. No combination of any chemical comes near plain water under pressure for cooling efficiency.

Thanx Cobadog
this took a bit of search n
but good 4 a laff
LOL
www.hcvc.com.au/forum/truck_Chat/15176-v...un-clik-here?start=0

cya