Recomendations for Batteries?

Mick, I am with Rusty... Truck and tractor dont get used one month to the next, a $25 solar panel from a cheap and nasty shop keeps them happy... helps if the pet sheep doesn't shew the leads off though..

/me

G'day, Had a discussion with a couple of tractor blokes at a rally last year about batteries and intermittent use.
Their answer was to buy calcium batteries, which are more forgiving.
But (and there is always a 'but') they will cost about 20% more, will not take charge from generators and need a 'smart' charger ( C-tek or similar) if they do need charging.
The upside is for the same size case will produce around 50% more CCA (cold cranking amps or 'grunt')
I purchased one not long after that conversation but obviously too early to comment any further.
Cheers Geoff

Calcium batteries are better as Tacho said but if you really like spending big money up front AGM (absorbed glass mat) is the way to go, Google Optima batteries and have a look, I have been using them for a couple of years and swear by them.

As far as batteries on concrete, I grew up having this drummed into me but nobody could give me a real reason, here is a quote from Trojan batteries site.

Storing a battery on concrete will discharge it quicker- Long ago, when battery cases were made out of natural rubber, this was true. Now, however, battery cases are made of polypropylene or other modern materials that allow a battery to be stored anywhere. A battery's rate of discharge is affected by its construction, its age, and the ambient temperature. The main issue with storing on concrete is that if the battery leaks, the concrete will be damaged.

Still no concrete evidence.

Thanks Fellas, think I might look into the AGM batteries. A guy at work was telling me about the one he has in his boat, cost around $300 and has lasted 9 years so far. He has never had to charge it and has left it up to 6 months at a time so sounds ideal for an old truck

There are three main things that shorten a batteries life, that no-one will argue with. These are ..

Inadequate charging ..
Excessive heat ..
Deep cycling with periods of being left completely flat (unless it's a deep-cycle battery).

Keep your batteries cool, keep them trickle charged when not in use (or charge them at least once a month), and don't run them completely flat or leave them flat .. and you'll get the maximum life from your battery.

Good idea to fit a battery isolator if not already fitted, to prevent drain and for the other safety reasons.

I agree with Loadstar about an isolator. I'm not advocating a particular product, but one of these cheap little isolators is a great investment for an old truck or car. Not only stops the battery going flat, but also allows you quickly cut the power if you short something out doing your own wiring and if you get in the habit of switching it off whenever you shut down then you'll never have a fire like Blacky Pete had in his iced vovo

G'day' I think battery isolators are a must in most situations. We began using them in loaders and other gear working in haysheds, then later fitting to old tractors and now the D Reo has one.
Main reason being the wiring is yonks old, at least 25 years and for many much more than that, so if there was an electrical problem it is quick to dis-connnect the power and probably save it. Also protects against power leakage and flat battery.
Cheers Geoff

The only problem is, you blokes are talking old, simple equipment, when you promote battery isolators.
Anything with a digital clock, modern radio/stereo/CD player, or other electronic item, generally has to have a constant power source to enable it .. or you end up having to reset it, every time you disconnect the power.

Would it be fairly safe to think, most of these blokes have got pre computerised buggies to store...?
Half of em are probably pull start.. with gas lights!
chocs

note: written with a 'cheeky grin' on his face