Bedford ignition issues! Help!

Thanks asw, I'll keep you posted

The basics that we have forgotten. I want to be repco & sell parts.
Primary ignition system.
OK, buy yourself a dwell meter, either s/hand, or go to supercheap, e- bay or whatever.Surprised your mechanic does not have one, it will take all this guess work out of it.
Hook the dwell meter to the lead from the dizzy to the coil, either end, doesnt matter. From memory, without looking it up, the dwell for a 6cyl should be around 32degrees, adjust point gap from say 15 thou to get the figure somewhere around the req degrees, ball park figure,& as long as the instrument hovers around that figure, pass stage 1.

Increase engine revs say to 2000 rpm, this will make the centrifigul advance mechanism now work, along with the vac advance to bring the ignition timing somewhere around the 30 degree mark, which will also alter the point gap somewhat that will also affect the dwell (coil saturation time), end result, the dwell meter reading will alter, but should remain steady. If it jumps all over the place, then you have batt supply issue, or troubles in the points area.
Secondary System
Grab yourself a KV meter, or, a simple spark stress tool.
I will gaurantee you, if the spark will jump a 32kv gap, with the lead insitu with the plug, THERE IS NOTHING WRONG with the secondary system :
Another, tip,
I specalise in LPG powered engines, & I will tell you this, IF the engine does not run correctly on petrol due to electrical or mechanical faults, DO NOT even attempt to run it on LPG, because it will just double your grief, & you will never GUESS where the problem lies.
Basic tools required for a good tune up,
Dwell meter or more modern day engine scope,
a good quality exhaust gas analyser that will tell how much fuel is being delivered & how much is being burnt & wasted out the exhaust. Valve clearance check is an absolute must with gas, as you will burn a valve real quick.
Good workshop with good equipment & know how, should be a ten minute check. Shop around
Gilly

Thanks everyone got your input
Turned out it had the wrong coil in it! It had a resistor coil but the truck doesn't have the resistor! My mechanic said that it had probably been on there for years but never mattered because the truck probably only got driven once in a blue moon but now I've been driving it every day for the past it just fried the points.
We put a new coil in, new points, rotor button and condensor, I had already put the new plugs and leads in it. Drives like a boss now
Except.....
Now it has an exhaust leak.
Check my new post for the details here:
www.hcvc.com.au/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1400930233/0