d5n dodge rear axles

gday im going through the brakes on my d5n dodge 300, i have changed the master cylinder for a reco,but the brakes dont pump up , so now i want to check each wheel cylinders.i was told with the dual rear wheels that the axle has to come out to access the wheel cylinders , has anyone pulled axles out & is it a lot of work ....thanks

If it's a full floating rear end yes the axles and hubs have to come off, don't take the wheels off just undo the axles and pull out the axles be careful not to damage the gasket undo the lock plate undo the outter lock nut remove the lock plate and remove the bearing nut and outter bearing keep the vehicle on jack so you can slide off the wheels and hub complete and so you don't damage the inner seal once you,ve done the other will be easy

You probably already know but adjust the brake adjusters close to all the way off ... Also sometimes the hubs are dam hard to get to slide off the shaft ( diff)

thanks for your help gm & ken .

If it's a full floating rear end yes the axles and hubs have to come off, don't take the wheels off just undo the axles and pull out the axles be careful not to damage the gasket undo the lock plate undo the outter lock nut remove the lock plate and remove the bearing nut and outter bearing keep the vehicle on jack so you can slide off the wheels and hub complete and so you don't damage the inner seal once you,ve done the other will be easy

i was told that with the axle seals , it may be a good idea to replace these , if so are these seals still available?

Most seals are available if you have a bearing supply shop in your area they shouldn't be a problem just a matter of removing them fairly intact so they can be measured most have the size embossed on them

G'day Syd did you bleed the master cyl before you fitted it? If not pull the m/cyl off and pump it up on the bench by putting your finger over the outlet and pushing the plunger in to get the air out of it first you will need to keep your finger on there as you put the cyl back in to stop the fluid coming out and fit the pipe up quick, then bleed at booster once bolted up. As for the seals I would not pull a wheel of and refit without replacing seal,
i'm too lazy to do it again : :.



Jon

Most seals are available if you have a bearing supply shop in your area they shouldn't be a problem just a matter of removing them fairly intact so they can be measured most have the size embossed on them

yes i have a bearing shop down the road .so i will take it with me to get replacements ...thanks again

G'day Syd did you bleed the master cyl before you fitted it? If not pull the m/cyl off and pump it up on the bench by putting your finger over the outlet and pushing the plunger in to get the air out of it first you will need to keep your finger on there as you put the cyl back in to stop the fluid coming out and fit the pipe up quick, then bleed at booster once bolted up. As for the seals I would not pull a wheel of and refit without replacing seal,
i'm too lazy to do it again : :.

ok thanks indian , i will double check to see if all air is out



Jon

Hi Syd
Just reading your old post regarding Dodge 300.
I have a Dodge AT4 329 with the Dana70 Diff.
I suppose the rear axle is the same on your truck.
The Hub seal for the rear, part number 417485 is no problem,
but I can't find anyone that can help with the front hub seals.
I went to Consolidated Bearings they couldn't match them.
All I can see on the hub seal is A M 893 NO1.
Did you change the front hub seals?
Thanks for any info
Regards
Alan