1975 Atkinson restoration

Oilman, i think your idea sounds good. I drive a '74 Mk2 a bit each harvest, 290 Cummins, 15 spd o/d and it does 100kph at about 1700-1750 rpm. I think the diffs were changed when it was uprated to 42.5t, and while the 290 is no powerhouse by todays standards, it is adequate when loaded, and scoots home empty with steel tri chassis tipper very nicely on the flat, but a head wind or much of a hill knocks her around in o/d.

A maximum tailshaft angle of around 3 degrees was mentioned, but upon investigation 8 degrees is acceptable at 2300rpm which is the max the Gardner will do through the overdrive box. Based on the 8 degrees, the min tailshaft length between universals is 470mm which will work out OK. I will try to find a suitable secondhand tailshaft to suit. I think I have also found a pair of diffs with a 4.11 ratio. Just waiting for them to dismantle to make sure all looks OK. I just about have the chassis stripped, just want to leave the engine and gearbox in while I set up the rearend and fit a tailshaft. The cab is about to come off and then once the rearend has been set up, I can remove the engine, gearbox and rearend and have the chassis sandblasted.

OilMan
Gudday m8
here B a few pix of the Big 'A'air tank mounting on the back of the passenger side 'J' bracket of fuel tank








any Progress pix ??


cya

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It has been sometime since I posted anything, but I have been continuing to work away on the project. Unfortunately not a lot to see for my efforts. Almost everything has been removed from the chassis, and I have started dismantling the cab, removed the doors, seats, wipers etc. I have also been repairing items as I have gone - examples are repairing the starter, new bearings in the throttle cross shaft, new bushes and seals in the remote for the gearshift, new bushes, seals, gaskets, breather in the gearbox input, cutting out rust and repairing the bracing holding the exhaust/inlet etc

I have decided on a 151" wheelbase which is 5" longer than original which gives me a bit better tailshaft angle but no one would pick it. It also means that I shouldn't have to mess around extending airlines etc. Over the weekend I went to start redrilling the chassis in the new location and discovered that the new chassis bracing that I had cut and folded was not correct, so back to the steel company this morning to get it redone.

Below is a current picture.

Sounds like its moving along all ok
Is there many repairs to be done to the cab or are you just getting it ready to paint ?


Paul

These cabs often cracked around the front mounts and it may need repair there.

The cab has no cracks, and looks like it has never been repaired in the usual places. I think the truck has done less than 400k as it spent most of its life as a farm truck. While I was pulling out some of the cab lining I found an old RWC from '92 and it only had 240k on the clock back then. I will have to do a couple of small repairs to the roof, as I think the airhorn may have been pulled out at some time as their is a metal plate between it and the roof but that has almost rusted way. Won't know until I get around to removing it.

I have a few questions that I think would be well known but a quick look didn't find what I am looking for.

1. Is there a formula to work our the position of a turntable on a bogie drive? I know the king pin sits a bit forward of the centre of the bogie but how do I work out by how much?
2. I need to fill some 1/2" holes on the chassis that are no longer required. I was going to countersink the holes a little with a larger drill, cut some 1/2" bar the thickness of the chassis and bevel the edges then MIG in place and grind off. Is this the right method?
3. I need to buy new front shocks and cab shocks. I have measured the compressed/extended length and top/bottom mountings and sent to Monroe but no reply as yet. Anyone suggest a better method to find the right ones, or a good company to deal with?
4. My front springs need to be reset or replaced. Is it worth getting them reset (any suggestions in Melbourne) or should I look at replacing them (if so where do I buy?). I have heard that some have had them reset but they didn't last long before sagging again.

Thanks again.

We were advised to put the centre of the turn table (king pin) 6 inches forward of the middle of the bogie. Apparently that is a rule of thumb/good place to start. It seemed right for our truck. One mate ended up going slightly further forward with his, as he reckoned it gave him more definite steering/less wander.

Oilman,
I had great service and cheap prices from Morwell Spring and Suspension at 52 Commercial Road, Morwell. Phone 5134 8999, fax 5134 2569. Ray Walters is the man. He actually makes springs, rather than importing them from China, as all the places still operating in Melbourne appear to do. He can supply imperial sizes. He also had spring pins and castellated nuts that the Melbourne guys said were made of unobtainium.

Commercial Road is to your right from the Morwell off ramp from the Princes Highway. You can actually see his workshop from the off ramp.

I admit that Morwell is a little outside Melbourne but it is not far away and the countryside in the La Trobe Valley is worth a look, as is the South Gippsland area, if you want to take a scenic ride towards the coast and Phillip Island, etc. PM me if you want details of a couple of members with several restored and under-restoration trucks.

Morris.