Penetrating Oil Mix

Wot sum yanks swear by ................. or swear @



Heat the problem bolt up n let the heat melt sum candle wax onto problem area mainly on the end of thread
let it cool
n do it all again ............... may B 3 or more times
the heating & cooling draws the candle wax into thread (Paraffin me thinx they call it)
cya
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VP has 8 big grade 8 bolts holding the front suspension in. Guy at Fortuna engineering has a huge rattle gun, would not even look at them. (was doing a wheel align) Probably been there for 34 years.
Took her home and heated each head till glowing and kept like that for a few mins, then squirted water on the head for a minute or so to shrink the bolt from the heated and expanded thread. (no access for WD or similar)
Bolts came out with a small spanner !

Heating bolts red hot converts the rust in the thread ,and shrinks its volume.......freeing the thread.....It also removes the heat treat the bolt has ,making it softer...........if you can get access,the most effective penetrant is 30% solution of nitric acid...this is highly penetrating,and dissolves rust at the same time................using tallow,or beeswax,or candlewax is an old steamfitters remedy.

I think the thread form also has a lot to do with it.
Rusty BSF or SAE will always give grief whereas some ancient Whitworth thing will undo.
I noticed the track guy used a 1" rattle gun driven by a mobile compressor when removing the track plates to replace pins and bushes.
The track bolts were very course metric and mine had never been undone, so at least 30 years in the dirt.
A slosh of sump oil and into it with the rattle gun.
They either came off in a flash or he didn't bother, out with the gas axe.
Only had to replace about 10 for both tracks which amazed me.
Also saw on TV a reno show in the UK where they used a huge square water tank once used to fill steam trains. It was fabricated from cast iron panels all bolted together.
No idea how old it was, 100 years would not surprise me but those blokes undid the old square headed bolts and nuts that held it together and removed a couple of floor panels to make access stairs.

Well aware that heat/shrink does not do the bolt a lot of good, but if they won't come out and there is no access for any form of penetrant works good, just need to replace the bolts, which was planned from the start.
To try and refit, refit, rethread, whatever, the "nut" part was totally impossible in this situation, if any bolts had been broken on the way out I honestly have no idea what we would have done, totally impossible to rework them where they were located.

This is a real 1950's Wd40 pack.

That would go over well today, i'm sure.

If you are looking for a carrier that helps wick the useful ingredient in, and then evaporates, leaving the useful to do its job, what is wrong with good old petrol (I believe our Ameri6acn friends call it gas(oline). It is cheaper than bottled water, too!

Lang wrote: This is a real 1950's Wd40 pack.

I could do with some of that but the good lady would say I
Need a can of start you b#$*%@d as well
Bluey

Bluey
m80
not forget n
some need primin







So they tell me

LOL
cya

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