A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Back to that job tomorrow, work has been interupting my play time way too much lately.

Just realised it's two months that I've owned B for now, and as mentioned in yesterday's post I was uncertain what I would be doing today but, as it was raining again, I opted to continue with the remaining u-bolt. :dry:
The extra day of soaking seemed to help (albeit with water dispersant/lubricant), either that or I was revived . . . cos the nuts came undone easier than the others (this means I only grunted - without any expletives!).
A shuffling of chassis supports and easing the axle forward left me considering which way to go with remounting the axle once more.
I have several ideas how this can be achieved BUT won't say how I currently intend to do it; not until some of you give me your opinions. :evil:
NB The springs are angled inwards towards the front so it is not a simple slide it forward, :sick:

I did disconnect the brakes hoses, before anybody points them out and then, before packing up for the day, I trial fitted the front guards. This appears to confirm the amount of forward movement I had previously worked out, give or take a smidgeon and disregarding the axle being about a 5mm offset to one side as it is.

Maybe I'll attempt the engine start tomorrow???

Looking good. Can you fit an extra cross member to mount the front of the springs?
OR
A couple of offset mounts?

Another crossmember? :S

The springs are mounted just fine. I have looked at using the O type axle (too many differences), and the J series axle, (different width, six stud not eight - smaller brakes and different to the rebuilt ones on the M type chassis) with nothing leaping out at me and saying, "Use this one."
I am looking more at fitting this axle to these springs - it is the actual ways that this can be done that I'm trying to get ideas for (even though I am set with the way I will probably do it) :pinch:

Everything is possible, given enough consideration, it's just there might be a way I haven't thought of yet???

PS I enjoyed your success, and the beer too cobbadog

It sound like you are thinking about moving the axle forward on the spring. I don't see how you can do that without affecting the whole dynamic of the spring - although with a top speed of 38mph, that might not matter. I would've thought Cobba was on the right track with moving the spring mounts forward using a perch at the font to adjust for the narrowing of the chassis. I'm waiting with interest to see what you come up with.

I actually took a day off! It must be horribly boring for those people who have no interests, what do they do all day?
I did get some steel plates about the right size for my axle fittings (:whistle: still not saying what I have in mind IHScout :dry: ) but they came with two pieces of square tubing welded to them, all four sides, very thorough, but they've got to go! Big disc grinder job later.

Today though I was back into it and hot to trot at firing the engine but no video, sorry to disappoint you Swidhy, but you're not as disappointed as me . . .
1. Removed the rocker cover to check valves, just as well as number 5 inlet valve was stuck!
2. After attempting to get it moving, unsuccessfully, I decided to do things correctly and pull the head off.
3. While doing this I discovered that number 6 inlet valve must have been stuck as well, resulting in a bent push-rod, probably when I managed to turn it over?

4. Looking down into the engine things didn't look too flash either, with rusty debris mainly in 5 and 6, but also a little in number 4. That explains the plugs I checked a few days ago.

5. After minimal clean up things looked a little better, and then it was wrapped up in case it rains.


That's it for now, I've used my quota of images so you'll have to wait until next time to see how bad the valves looked.
Ergo, disappointed PDU

I'm hoping you pull the pistons to make sure the rings are free. Worn rings shouldn't be a problem, just use some oil. Stuck rings, on the other hand....

So long as the valves come up well and the fuel and ignition are good, it'll run fine.

Enjoying the updates, Jarrod.

Sad but good progress PDU. Wait til you see what I found inside the McDonald engine, yours is fit to be in a F1 workshop.

The rings should be fine after a good soaking of oil Jarrod, although number 2 feels a wee bit loose in the bore (it MIGHT rattle?) but at the moment the inlet valves in 5 and 6 are a little bit like cobbadog's McDonald!

Neither valve showing any sign of movement even when using an American screwdriver ( persuader :whistle:) . . . but during the course of today, while cleaning up the debris after a month and a half of dashing to and fro, I kept soaking the two stuck valves every half hour, giving them a thump or three with a rubber hammer. End of day and number 5 is now just about fully closed, and the back of B for has become a handy shelf.


Tomorrow I intend cutting up all the remnants of the old tray ready for my fire when it turns a bit colder, cleaning up a bit more in the shed, and flipping the head back over so I can encourage those two naughty valves to behave as they should. :dry:

Success! :woohoo:
Number 5 and 6 inlet valves have taken the hint (after a damn good thumping) and now go up and down as they should. Cleaned out the obvious rust and could reassemble IF the head gasket didn't leave a few chunks stuck to the block/head when it came apart.
I priced a new one at $250!!! :ohmy: You've got to be kidding?
I just want to know general condition of the engine - not buy it again!
So, does anyone have a re-useable J series (1961) head gasket laying around? The old engine supplied a pushrod,, but the cylinder heads are different.
OR
Can anyone suggest some other way out of my dilemna . . . ?
PS Don't seem to be able to contact A.C.W. for a price on one even?
I'm tempted to throw it on, as is, and not worry about putting water into it for now - but then I'd have to do it all again later. :pinch: :sick: