1940 Chev - Looking for knowledge

I'm in the VERY early stages of researching to restore a 1940 Chevy (Holden) Pickup

Just gotta get final pricing to get her over from Woop Woop WA. Started requesting quotes, and got a few bites already, just want to get a few more to then clarify how she'll be coming over.

From the Plates and Inlaws Uncle I can establish she is a 156” Wheel Base 1.5Ton stove top 6… begging to be a timber tray banana back for the little race car's my mates and I roll around the tracks on.

This will be my first proper historic car to work on. 80's cars don't help, too much plastic, so I'm looking forward to the learning curve and not having to deal with brittle plastic.

I'm located in Mooroolbark, so not too far from HCVC HQ. So hope to attend a meeting or few to learn as much as I can about these old beasts.

First couple of questions I'm hoping the forum will be able to shed some light on it's original specs and general restoration techniques from others experience.

1. From the plate I can see the "Paint Code" was P T K N... which has me stumped, as it isn't part of the usual Alpha Numeric systems established from 1942 on. I think it was two tone but not 100% sure. I'd like to see what the original colour scheme was, to keep it, if we like it. If not, wife and I were thinking a Cream and Black would look classic/classy.




2. Any tips and tricks for starting off restoring an old girl, I'd be more than welcome. I guess stripping her apart and starting by stripping back to the non-rust and protecting the parts will be task one. I'd like to get her running with the original running gear if possible, after giving her heart and drive-line a birthday. If things are too difficult, it might get a modern twist, but nothing too crazy. Although I like Rat-Rods, this is not the one to do that to.







_{when ya photos dont go in right, go to edit, put your cursor where you want the photo and click on INSERT.... or just remember insert on your first go.... :whistle:}

I think you might find that truck was an Army Contract and painted accordingly.

Having done a 45 model (almost identical to the 40 mechanically ) I think your best modification would be to put double acting tube shock absorbers on the front, particularly. There is no 40's vehicle which steers as nice as a Chevrolet - "If it steers like a truck it is not a Chevrolet" but the difference between single and double acting shocks on corners and rough road is huge.

Of course get a manual - these are very common. If you can not get 39/40 the 41/47 are 90% the same. Parts manuals are very handy for exploded diagrams.

I am not sure what bolt pattern the duals had but the lighter trucks with singles have Landcruiser/Patrol stud pattern.

Lang

Thanks, yeah, handling is something I'd like to improve.

I have a HR license and driven my fair share of Kenworths. but rather it not handle too much like an old rig.

Seen a couple of reproduction manuals on e-bay. Any start would be a good one there I guess.

Here are some photos some singles some duals. Note that the ones with the fat tyres have the front guards cut out while the smaller tyres kept the standard civilian guards.

Here you go for likely original colours.

anzacsteel.hobbyvista.com/othervehicles/aussiecamlw_1.htm

I have the 1940 GMH NASCO parts book . The front cover of the book states "SPECIALLY COMPILED FOR THE AUSTRALIAN COMMONWEALTH MILITARY FORCES" . The book is for sedans and trucks

The 1940 Chevrolet truck was series 13, 14, 15.

1940 Maple Leaf was series 16 - diff ratio was 7.16 to 1

1940 CHEVROLET

Basically, the model 14 had a 133" wheelbase

The model 15 was 158 1/2" wheelbase ( yours ? )

15-40 ES Chassis and cab with special 12 X 7 GS Wagon with canopy top - Standard truck chassis fitted single rear wheels 5.20 X 6 pierced disc wheels . rear axle ratio 6.166 to 1

15-40 E2 Chassis and cab with special 10ft. 6ins x 7ft GS Wagon with canopy top- Standard truck chassis Dual wheel with 7.20 X 6 pierced disc wheels rear axle ratio 6.166 to 1

Look under the screw head on your plate to see if it is 15=40 ES or E2

Effective with overseas 18 x 8 wheels , the wheel equipment for these units will be changed to 5.18 X 8 3/4 offset

1940 MAPLE LEAF

The Maple leaf model 16-40/E12 Chassis cab 157 3/4" wheelbase with special Office Lorry body

..............................16-40/E8 ...............................................wit h special stores lorry body

..............................16-40 /E6 ................................................wi th special breakdown vehicle body

Just noticed back wheels on all trucks 10 stud front 5 stud!

Chevs had ten stud wheels all round, used five on the front with a five hole cover plate, Maple Leafs of that vintage had larger five stud all round.
David.

I don't know much about 1940's Chev's but my 1929 model AC Chevrolet ute had the first of the "Stovebolt" not stovehead, sixes. It was billed as "A six for the price of a four" The name "stovebolt:" came from the quarter by 1 inch bolts holding the sump on, named after that size of bolts used in American kitchen stoves at that time.

http://www.hcvc.com.au/forum/attachment/2844

http://www.hcvc.com.au/forum/attachment/2845

http://www.hcvc.com.au/forum/attachment/2846

Gadget
One thing to consider is that the original 216ci Stovebolt engine had the splash oiling system.. If you plan on driving it loaded much I would advise changing it out with the newer 50's era 235ci (or larger) engine with the pressurized oiling system.