Austin K2 Restoration...Pictures Needed

Brakes update-
Had a mate come round Tuesday to help fill and bleed the brakes.
Surprisingly we only needed to tighten two unions by 2 flats and it was all done
Can't be more happy, as that was one big worry that could have seen me go through the same headache that FILL has.
No leaks form the cylinders or my refurbished copper/brass fittings.
More than happy with the work done by Ian at POWER BRAKES, and would highly recommend.

Steering box has developed a very slight leak though, so I've been told to drop the oil and re-fill with a light weight grease - any thoughts welcome?

Self leveling grease, 00 grade grease or 1200 grade oil, is the shot. It is used in the front ball joints of four wheel drives which have much worse sealing conditions than steering boxes. Most older vehicles had this "Semi-fluid grease", "Liquid grease", "Self levelling grease" specified for their steering boxes. The Penrite shown above has rave reviews on many old vehicle web sites.

www.penriteoil.com.au/products/categorie...ic/steering-box-lube

This type of semi-fluid grease was also used in many old diffs as well eg Model T Ford.

Do not use chassis or bearing grease as it will eventually clean off the working parts and pack on the sides of the steering box. You have to have some "circulation".

Lang

Do not use chassis or bearing grease as it will eventually clean off the working parts and pack on the sides of the steering box. You have to have some "circulation".

Lang

I strongly second this!

You may find you only need a new seal on the output shaft. Good time to check the bearings / bushings. Get someone to wiggle the steering wheel while you check for up/down, or side to side movement at the output. You can get away with a tiny bit.

Jarrod.

Thanks Jarrod,
But finding the seal is the problem, which is why I was hoping that I could just shove it back on and top her up.
Yes, its slowly seeping out through the splines
On hind sight, I don't recall emptying any fluid out of it, so it was probably empty before I even removed it from the chassis
Where might I find a proper seal or what's the best way to make one?
Bob

On another note, I went down to my body shop man and he's nearly finished the last lot of filling and flushing on the cab, so were hoping it might be in the paint shop by the end of next week, but should definitely be back home in the shed by the end of September.
The push will then be on to get her on the road for Christmas

Short of a part number, you'll have to get it out. No big deal if you ruin it, just take the bits into CBC, or wherever and they'll measure it up.

Jarrod.

Hi Claire
You are kicking goals, well done with the brakes. The last time I got my brakes done it was with the same company- they were nice to deal with. I have put mine on but have to re do the lines. Next week I might get some time to do them, (time and money ). I think you have caught up and jumped ahead of me, again well done and keep up the good work.
Cheers Fill

Well I decided to drop the bottom plate off the steering box and try to empty the oil from that end rather than stripping down all my steering arms and joints again in order to remove the whole box to check the output seal.
Unfortunately when the plate dropped off, out fell a few ball bearings and a piece of the bearing race
I'm not sure whether it was broken previously or simply broke when I opened it, but it was buggered.
I fretted for a few hours about where I'm going to find a new replacement one, as I doubt CBC would have one in stock, but then I had a eureka moment
I knew I had bought the other K2 for more than just my next project.....she's also a very willing donor now
Buying the new grease tomorrow Lang.
Drained and changed the gear box and rear diff oil over the last few days and filled up the fully refurbished engine.
Planning to go round a grease all and every nipple that I can find over the next few evenings

Thanks Lang,
Found a tube at my local Sprint yesterday and filled the box tonight.
Hopefully the leaks now cured