1959 Dodge 3-59D

The 5 speeds are still 1:1 top gear but is that correct?? so there is no real gain and its not going to be loaded up big time. I thought just bigger tyres to gear it up a bit. Its got 7.00 tyres on a 20" rim, the tyres do look a bit small for the rim size. Any idea what the diff ratio would be, its a single speed one. The owners manual says the diff in a 3-59 is a single speed spiral bevel type diff. Where the center bolts into the housing is on a angle leaning foward not like most diffs where its straight up and down.

There is one gets around at Lake Goldsmith, might be a 2 or 3 tonner.

Yer this is a 2-33 with the duel wheels. 2 tonner 133" wheel base.

well hello mr hardtopman I do know alittle about "The 1960"
dodge truck Ive owned a 233D for the last 21years I do have a copy of the parts book and the operators manual I allso have a 359D sitting in my back yard going to wast. Chassie, rims,diff, motor,mudgards but I would like to keep the cab . I found king pin for mine from a company in Sydney that had Ad's in the trading post. The pins and bushes i found at a old vintage car spare bloke in Adelaide. The white dodge posted is allso 233D , Two stands for 2 tonner and 33 is 133 inch wheel base it came out with a 251 P type Kew motor the P means The starter and bellhousing all suit 313 poly motor as well.
any Q and A 's I will try and help regard Doc

yes the dodge (new process) G bags are direct top including the 5 speeds .. id go 8.25/20" tyres (if you can still find them nowadays)the other option is to get your engine to rev a little harder ..my old AT4 with a warm 318 would easily "top out" at 120km/h+ . . although they were never designed to go that fast

The 3.59D came out with a 5.86 to 1 diff try going to this web site home.comcast.net/~jobrated/Calulator.htm it will help you work revs to speed. normally a 10.00 tyre is 6 mph faster than a 9.00 tyre so going from 7.00 to 9.00 will improve you top end your rims should be 5" x 20 " the 7.65 A came with 6.5" and mounted 8.25 and 9.00 tyres
a overdrive five speed box or a overdrive joey box would be a big help. To fit a v8 should be no big problem I was able to get one in my 233d

Check out Wagga Tractor & Truck. They advertise on Ebay. Have a list of kingpin/ shackle pin sets. Bought a few Inter parts off them.

Went and checked out poly yesterday is in a 575 AT4, anyway some fresh petrol and she fired up no worries. Not sure of the year as to if its a 313 or 318. Engine number is 1614-101241C

Stumbled across this the other day when i was workin at Skipper Trucks. There was a R series Mack in the yard and the door handles caught my eye as they looked like my dodge door handles. Took a few pics and also ran tape over it to get size. They are the same door handle, my truck is 1959 and later dodge/inter use this door handle as well. R series mack did not come out till mid 60's.

Mack


Dodge

If you do some looking, you will find that hardware-sharing is common. In particular, within companies "separate lines" .. but also, when a manufacturer can't justify the cost of making a completely new part. The door handles on '52 Chevs are the same as FE & FC Holdens, I've been told .. although I've never checked personally .. and I've heard of other restorers being surprised when they found the same hardware on a different vehicle. I found original emission control switches on my 4.2L Holden V8 in my 1980 Bedford, that are Ford logo labelled, and complete with Ford P/No's! ..

You will probably find, that the door handles were cast by a non-ferrous foundry in Adelaide, operating under contract to Chrysler .. and because they were independent suppliers .. and because "registered design" rights for parts, normally expire after 6 years .. they were likely to be willing to supply the handles to anyone that wanted them.

At a guess i would say you would be rite and it would be only the aussie made Macks.

Well the sarvo started pulling the old girl apart, gave the cordless rattle gun and grinder a work out and burnt some grass and also lost some skin
Cab bolts are all 5/16unc and with rust are tough to move, all that oil i pumped around a few weeks ago has helped a bit but and got quite a few undone. Aim is to get front clip off in one piece as nose cone to gard bolts are hard to get to with spanner let alone rattle gun or grinder.




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