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1949 Dennis F1 Fire Truck Restoration

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11 years 6 months ago #47143 by Bugly
A little bit more on the electrical and a question for Beaver ...

The engine bay side of the firewall ...



... and the cab side of the firewall. I'll fit the fuses one by one once I hook up the battery ...



And the question for Beaver ... I have topped up the radiator system with demineralised water and Penrite Classic Coolant Conditioner, but I have a wee leak out the drain hole in the water pump. I assume that the coolant is slipping past the carbon ring water seal. It may be that once the engine is running, this seal may bed in and the leak may stop - am I right? Or do these seals leak anyway? I am losing about one drip every 10 seconds while the engine is at rest.

The fuel tank is all sorted, and the fuel gauge sender unit is fitted. All wiring is run to everything I can think of (including the brake light switch) and terminated on the cab end. This will make it simple later when I mount lights and things, as the wiring is all ready for them.

1948 Fordson E83W 10/10 pickup

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11 years 6 months ago #47144 by bigcam
Bugly, give me a hoy if your in Brisbane and looking for a job, that looks top notch.

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11 years 6 months ago #47145 by modela2010
Nice work there Bugly

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11 years 6 months ago - 11 years 6 months ago #47146 by

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11 years 6 months ago #47147 by Bugly
Thanks guys for your nice words!!

Yep Trev, I thought about the cloth wrap, but only very briefly. The joy of the spiral wrap is that it can be very easily undone and a wire or two added ... I know, because I had to do it a few times! ::)

I bought a new ratchet-type crimper for the job, and it was just the ducks nuts. It can't be removed until the right crimp tension is put on the terminal. On top of that, every joint was given a big tug to make sure the crimp was a good 'un!

I don't mind the truck showing a few modern bits and pieces, because I reckon if it had been retained in service since new it would have ultimately had these upgrades anyway. And yep, a good few hours in the job ... good thing I was paying me a contract rate instead of an hourly rate!!! ;D ;D

1948 Fordson E83W 10/10 pickup

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11 years 6 months ago #47148 by MMKNJL
BUGLY - wow! That's very impressive, all those relays. Glad it is you and not me. I struggle with too many of those things.

You certainly are doing the old engine justice with the way you are going about the whole restoration.

Cheers, Max.

Max

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11 years 6 months ago #47149 by Beaver

And the question for Beaver ... I have topped up the radiator system with demineralised water and Penrite Classic Coolant Conditioner, but I have a wee leak out the drain hole in the water pump. I assume that the coolant is slipping past the carbon ring water seal. It may be that once the engine is running, this seal may bed in and the leak may stop - am I right? Or do these seals leak anyway? I am losing about one drip every 10 seconds while the engine is at rest.

I don''t think it should drip at all while the engine is static. Agree it will probably take up with a bit of use.

We've been using Narva corrugated split tubing to make up wiring looms. Looks a bit "older" and neater than spaghetti. (Narva is better quality than some of the aftermarket equivalent sold through Repco, etc).

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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11 years 6 months ago #47150 by JBran
Is use that split tubing as well, its great stuff.
What wires are you running into/out of etc those relays? And how much difference/what effect does it have using relays instead of just wiring everything straight from the fuse board?

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11 years 6 months ago #47151 by bigcam
I sometimes just keep all the wires in line and then use a series of small cable ties.
If you want it look real flash, leave all your wires a little bit long where they terminate, and once you have got every circuit in the loom, and as Bugly found out, it's best to wait until the end, you always forget a couple, I usually run a couple of extra's just in case to the Fuse Box and leave them in the engine bay or where ever you think you will want them, then the Auto Electrical wholesalers sell a Mesh type heat shrink. Mark your wires, cut all the terminals off, slip the meshstyle heat shrink over the lot, I put a bit of insulation tape about every 300mm to keep the wires in a nice line, then shrink the mesh stuff over it and redo your terminations cutting the cable back to the right length.
A lot of mucking around, and Bugly, your job looks first rate in any case.

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11 years 6 months ago #47152 by Beaver

, because I reckon if it had been retained in service since new it would have ultimately had these upgrades anyway. And yep, a good few hours in the job ... good thing I was paying me a contract rate instead of an hourly rate!!! ;D ;D

Fire brigade mechanics/electricians are notorius for repairing, changing, upgrading and adding new wiring, at the same time leaving all the old stuff in situ. We've found it often quicker and safer to rip all the old stuff out and start again. :-X but we probably make a profit on all the scrap copper we reclaim ;D

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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