1949 Dennis F1 Fire Truck Restoration

Thanks everybody for the many leads. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] I am waiting for a reply from a local engraver, so if they can't do it I'll work through this new info.

Good to see you got the Dennis up & running bugly

Thanks trucksyd ... I don't know if I've done the hard part already or whether that's still in front of me!!

I removed the main skin on the right side this afternoon. This gave me a good look at the inside timer framework. The main horizontal stringers that I thought would have continued from front to rear were actually fitted in two pieces, joined around the 'B' pillar ...

Joined in two pieces? More like joined in twenty pieces! Just like one of those interlocking wooden puzzles you are probably going to get for Christmas!! Here the upper stringer between the 'B' pillar and the upper locker ...

And here's the lower stringer between the battery box and the 'B' pillar, and the lower locker ...

Where the upper and lower stringers finish is where the 'A' pillar used to be. So quite a bit of fiddly work ahead.

What does Bugly want for Christmas then?? : : I reckon some timber and some wooden welding rods would be nice!!

Bugzley
Gudday M8

Lookn good

the fire mighta burnt it self out by the time u ready to roll

but on 2nd thorts U got the MB fueler to add sum fuel to fire to keep it on the go n till u're ready

LOL
cya

Hi Bugly,
I've restored quite a number of wooden bodied cars and trucks over the years and they are all made up of many small pieces. I don't know if you have done any before but the two bits of advice i would offer you are, (1) make sure you have the body level, it's good you have it on the chassis and (2) only replace on piece at a time, that way you can keep checking your panels will still fit.
Hope this is of some help to you. Carry on the good work i have been following you restoration for some time.
Cheers Kevin.

Thanks Kevin. I haven't done a timber frame repair before, but I've done an awful lot of thinking about this one! The truck is up on axle stands and is sitting level ... I made sure of this when I first started to strip it down. Before I take any of the old timber frame off, I'm giving it a number in chalk and photographing it. Also photographing where it came from after it has been removed. That way I know exactly what goes where.

You are quite right too, in suggesting that I only make one piece at a time, to make sure it fits OK before moving on to the next piece. I'll be splicing some of the new timber into the old, to save going too far with the frame replacement. After all, I only want to replace what has to be replaced, not to make a whole new fire truck frame. I reckon a well-fitting splice, some marine epoxy adhesive, and some wood screws will give me back some sound frame members.

Kevin ... any suggestions as to what timber would be best? So far I am led to believe an Australian ash would be as good as I can get. And to use silicon bronze screws.

Hi Bugly,
Sorry i have taken so long to get back to you.I've been a bit focused on the Ford. Answer to your question, i have always used Tasmanian Oak or Victorian Ash. Tassie Oak is getting hard to find in the bigger sizes now but Vic Ash is plentyful. I once did a T model for a fellow and he supplied his own timber which was a furniture grade hardwood. It worked just the same as the others but i dont know the name of it. When you buy your timber get rough sawn as it is cheaper than dressed. You are going to cut and plane it anyway so save yourself some money. As for screws i have only ever used normal slot head wood screws. Up your way with the humidity you may need something a little better. Have you thought about monel from a boat supply place.
Hope this helps,
Cheers Kevin.

Hi Kevin - I have already picked up my supplies of Tassie Oak ... enough to do the right hand side so far. The only option was dressed, in various widths but only in 19mm thickness. Not much choice in Darwin. That means that I will need to laminate timbers to build the size up, but that's OK. This may make it easier to steam-bend some timbers anyway. And dressed will glue better when laminating.

I am working with DRIVE Marine Services in NSW at www.boatcraftnsw.com.au/home.html for my supplies of adhesives and sealers, and will be using silicon bronze screws, flat head square drive. At present I am making up my timber steamer ... I'll post up some pictures of it when I get the first head of steam up!!

I have a really dumb question why cant you just use marine ply it will be stronger I would have thought easier and quicker to work with and will be hidden by the tin or is that to much like hot rodding the red rocket ?
Paul

I have a really dumb question why cant you just use marine ply it will be stronger I would have thought easier and quicker to work with and will be hidden by the tin or is that to much like hot rodding the red rocket ?
Paul

Paul, the section around the door that needs replacing is on a curve. That would pose a problem with the ply unless it was cut partway through to allow it to curve. Then you would need a structural framework behind it to fix to and keep the curve in it. I'm also dealing with the 'A' and 'B' pillars, which are the main cab supports, so will need some good strength there.

I reckon at the end of the day, it will be just as quick to fix the frame, and a good opportunity for me to learn new a skill!!

. . . I haven't done a timber frame repair before, but I've done an awful lot of thinking about this one! some marine epoxy adhesive, and some wood screws will give me back some sound frame members. . . what timber would be best? So far I am led to believe an Australian ash would be as good as I can get. And to use silicon bronze screws.

While being neither a successful vehicle restorer nor boaty . . . (thought I was once briefly crew on a sail boat) all this talk about timber and marine ply and epoxy, s/s and silicon bronze screws, learning new skills and such makes me think wooden boats.

You be Darwin, this may be a good excuse to talk your way into the front bar of the Darwin Sailing Club and make some enquiries about wooden boat repairs and who does them?

Maybe one of those hippy sailor types that currently has some time on his hands and that knows something about tropical timbers and the care, maintenance and construction of wooden boats?

It is the wet, so there's not much sailing being done and the bars bound to be well populated. (ah, coldies at the DSC, such sweet sweet memories [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif]).

just saying,
-b