1948 Fordson E83W pickup

Hi Bugly

I have been watching your restoration and am very impressed.
I was talking to a retired mechanic regarding the KEW Side Valve motor in my Dodge Truck a while back. One thing he told me was with side valve motors the valve springs go in with the closed end up and in OHV the closed end goes down.

I noticed your springs are closed end down...........is that the way they came out.

I cant see how it would make any difference but this guy was adamant.

Daz

G'day Bugly, if I can make a suggestion, using a piston, push the ring towards the bottom of the bore and measure the ring gap. Any taper in the bore will show up then, and ensure that the rings don't bind at the bottom of the stroke.

Thanks Ray, I should have thought of that! I'll do that tomorrow, but I'm picking it'll be OK because I don't think it was too long ago that it had the 0.030" rebore.

Checked tonight and all good, Ray. No taper in the bore that I could measure!!

Bulgy those rings look much bet a ru.

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing

Trevor

You're not wrong Trev!! Can't have had much compression before!!

Hi Bugly

I have been watching your restoration and am very impressed.
I was talking to a retired mechanic regarding the KEW Side Valve motor in my Dodge Truck a while back. One thing he told me was with side valve motors the valve springs go in with the closed end up and in OHV the closed end goes down.

I noticed your springs are closed end down...........is that the way they came out.

I cant see how it would make any difference but this guy was adamant.

Daz

I pulled one out tonight Daz, and as I thought they are same-same both ways. So with this engine, which ever way you fit them it's the right way up!!

Pistons in

um er,
closed end open end ?
huh?

But I do know from personal experience [as a tadpole] that putting 'progressively wound' valve springs in upside down is a prerequisite for taking it all apart again and doing it right the second time.

That is, the lightest, (easiest to compress) bits on top.
It allows the valve to seat/ unseat - respond to the cam lobe - quickly, and so expose the port to the maximum gas flow. [?]

Mine 'ran' but it wouldn't rev for shite, not good on a 250 Honda. [smiley=cry.gif]

Yours look to be the same 'pitch' from top to bottom, hence the "closed end open end" bewilderment.

bwwik?

-b

Had a look on the 'Net' re valve springs and there is definitely a right way to install them.

In my earlier post I referred to the closed/open end of the springs. After more research the terms should be 'Closer wound end and Open wound end' The Closer wound end should go to the Valve Head..ie down in OHV and up in SV. This has something to do with lighter wound open end being easier to compress/recoil by the tappets or cam followers.

BUGLY
Can you put up a photo of the valve spring in its un-compressed state?

BUGLY
Can you put up a photo of the valve spring in its un-compressed state?

Hee hee ... too late!! The Ford E93A engine has valve springs at a constant pitch from one end to the other. This engine was first manufactured in 1938, and didn't change much right through to 1959.

I made good progress this weekend. Con-rods fixed to the crankshaft, oil pump refitted, timing gears and new timing chain on, and the new ring gear fitted to the flywheel. I used mum's gas oven again, preheated to 260 degrees centigrade with the fan on, popped in the ring gear about mid-oven and baked it for about 10 minutes. Removed it while wearing my welding gloves and popped it straight on to the flywheel. Beautiful!!

Fitted up the flywheel and new spigot bearing, and lock-wired the bolts. Then fitted the clutch plate and pressure plate, lining up the bearing and the spline using my eyechrometer ...

The eyechrometer doesn't need recalibrating yet as the gearbox slipped straight on!! I bolted it up, checked everything over, and fitted the head gasket ...

The head was fitted to the block and torqued down, and we're ready to lift it off the workbench and slip it onto the chassis ...

Torque tube (driveshaft) fitted, front and rear engine mounts bolted up, manifold on, oil filler and dipstick tube fiitted and its looking good! So far I haven't found any bits left over that should be inside somewhere :

WOW Bugly the chassis and running gear look to nice to be hidden by body work very nice

Hi Bugly

I have been following this story with admiration and a lot of interest as I used to drive an E83W van when I left school in 1955. I seem to remember that because of the forward driving position it had a shorter and more upright gear lever than shown in your photos. It was certainly much shorter than the equivalent Prefects etc of the day.

I can remember when I was flying around at its top speed of about 35mph I would change gear with this beautiful short gear lever imagining I was in an MG.

Congratulations on the job you are doing, it looks amazing!

Hi,
Front engine mount bracket to the engine - 2 little bolts.
Bracket to the chassis - 2 big bolts.

Oh well, it worked well enough for the first 76 years.

Good work.

-b