Fill's Bedford

I am reusing the old timber on the tray. for those that have been following my resto the timber on the tray will look like the coffee table
This is before I cleaned it

100_2885 by fill quinn , on Flickr

This is It after I cleaned it

100_2884 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Back in side drying slowly

100_2888 by fill quinn , on Flickr
Cheers Fill

Lookin good Fill

Hi Fill, glad to hear that you've got your mojo back & having another crack, keep up the good work that we all know you can do. Hope the specialists can keep their end up for you also. Cheers Tim

Looking good Fill. What sort of timber is that?

Thanks for the support Dieseldog the timber is O B H W (ordinary building hardwood). Forty years ago all house wall frames, sub floors and roof frames were made with it. The tree was cut down, sawn up and used wet. now days house frames are mostly pine, the only hard wood is kiln dried and dressed and used mainly for beams and studs under heavy loads. The only wet hard wood that is used today is mainly for fence rails.
The same timber today is cut wet and either air or kiln dried - a lot goes to beams or studs with all the good stuff used for floor boards which come in three grades. More goes into furniture- it takes a lot longer to grow and not as plentifull. I am replacing the boards behind the cab with new boards- Vic ash sawn and skipped dressed either kiln dried or air dried. I like to have it circular cut and not band sawn. There are mainly three types of timber grades utility, standard and select. I do not care which one I get.
Sorry for such a long answer
Cheers Fill

Look n good Fill
wot u gunna use to seal B tween the planx on the deck
n also
IF eye can have an also
can U tell us all bout the timber grading
F9 F11 etc
Thanx in advance
cya
§

Hi all
Sorry it has taken awhile to get back on Swishy . I am not going to seal between the boards the boards they will be butted together as I have said earlier I have cut 75 mm off each side of the tray so I could fit them nice. Originally fifty years ago the timber was put down wet and shrunk -I have dry fitted all the boards taken them off and put a 5 mm arris on both edges of each boards. When you buy OB depending what tree (Gum tree), and the size of tree and where abouts the timber was cut from and if it was dried fast or slow, all gives you a different finished size. After it is dried it is
machined to a accurate size. You will see in one photo I have planed the back of some boards to make the boards level on top. I like boiled linseed oil and turps mixed 50/50- the turps thins it down so it can soak right in. I use boiled because the bacteria has been killed. Why I like dry OB not dressed is that it is 25 mm thick instead of 19 mm thick. There is no need to have a tongue and groove joint because of the extra thickness will span between the joists and the butt joins will stop the water pooling. I will give the boards three coats of oil all round before I fix them down. That answers one of of your questions Swishy.
Cheers Fill

100_2890 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2892 by fill quinn , on Flickr