Fill's Bedford

Hi Fill,

Unless you are going to be doing lots of driving in dusty conditions, I wouldn't bother with any sort of filter. The British Army handbook that I have for the RL suggests that as part of the preparations for being able to ford water deeper than 2 feet or operating in very dusty conditions, the fitting should have a hose attached to it that needs to be extended to a higher location, and suggests putting the open end inside the cab. One must take into account that this book was written in the 1950's so harsh dusty conditions would probably mean Middle Eastern deserts.
This venting is the same sort of thing you need to do for differential breathers to keep water out of your diff. When you consider that the suction of air into this breather pipe is only going to happen when you apply the brakes due to the vacuum assist piston traveling down its cylinder, very little dust is going to be sucked in during normal driving conditions.

By the way, the maintenance section of my manual says to pour SAE 90 gear oil over the pivots of the levers in the vented cavity after you have reassembled it after an overhaul. It does suggest being careful not to get the gear oil on any rubber components, or letting it enter the rear of the vacuum cylinder. I havn't looked up the routine maintenance section to see how often it says it needs to be lubricated, but I suspect these trucks are a little like an old steam engine where you need to go around all sorts of lubrication points quite often with your oil can / grease gun.
By the way, I am really impressed with your restoration work!
cheers,
Pip

Hi Bedford4home
Thank you for your time again. I will not put any thing on the pipe.You do very well at explaining.
Cheers Fill

Fill try your local brake guy there is a few after market filters available the original one on my 1952 GMC had horse hair in it I think I still have it in the shed some where

Hi all
In one of my first posts I was looking for a hub spanner. I did no good. I made up a tool to get the lock nut off. The main nut was finger tight, so that was ok but I am putting the hubs on and need to do the first nut up tight then back it off. Today I decided to make one.
Cheers Fill

100_2842 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2845 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2844 by fill quinn , on Flickr

I have had to make a few spanners over the years like that, it always surprises me how strong they end up been I always just use normal mild steel pipe and can put a fair bit of strain on them before they brake
Good stuff fill

Paul

That's amazing, Phill.
I would never have thought of doing that. You were lucky to find a piece of pipe the right size!

Thanks Mrsmackpaul and Morris for your comments and feed back
Morris for the smaller nut I could not find the right size pipe so this is what I did. I just have to drill a hole through it for a handle
Cheers Fill

100_2849 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2850 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2851 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2852 by fill quinn , on Flickr

No doubt about Fill you are a real bush black smith mate , sorry mate you make a much neater job than a black smith, I should have said a engineer,

Some trucks, Ford among others, have a hexagonal or round-with fingers/tabs hub spanner but then quote a torque figure. My torquewrench has only a square drive for a socket. Maybe the answer is instead of putting a bar through the tool, weld in a crossmember with a suitable square fitting to take a socket extension bar, then use your torquewrench?
I dunno, I am not an engineer or even a mechanic, maybe there is a better way to do it?