C1510 inter rear brakes

May I have tips on how to best access brake drums via spider rim dual rears.
Must I pull outer rear, then inner or shortcuts ? How do release the drum ? I have slackened the snail adjuster from the inside. I did the fronts last year but now the rears need a birthday rebuild.

Jack it up, chunk of ply/sheet iron under the tyres with some lube. Pull axle and undo the axle nut/s,
Lower jack till tyres just touch enough to hold the axle centre to the hub and pull the whole assembly off.
Make sure you have a back up axle stand or blocks in case of jack failure.
Cheers Steve

Blackdukz methods quick but U need experience mainly not to nok the seal around when U put it back together
<1> Jack wheel up high so any oil / grease will run back into axle housing
<2> undo wheel nuts .... leave nuts hang n on thread by a cupla turns
> wack the side of the wheel wedges with a hammar etc to free them .... then remove nut & wedges (wedges can fly off n spill u're beer.... th@z why leave the nut on
<4> use a bar to help lift outer wheel off ... may need thump to free it on the hub
<5> remove wheel spacer
<6> if inner wheel is loose as U remove it it can also push the spacer off the hub
<7> undo axle/drive shaft nuts & washerers
<8> use a large hammar n wack the center of the axle to make the axle rebound n loosen the axle stud tapered collets and remove
<9> remove hub locknut lockring and inner nut
<10> back brake adjuster off n slide wheel hub off ( B carefull with the seal)
<11> have a beer its thirsty work .... U earned it
LOL
cya

Ive never seen a c1510 on spiders...smallest Ive seen is a Acco 1600 single speed rockwell on spiders...The axle studs look like a 2 sped Rockwell.........but as someone said 'what do i know?"

Thank you gentleman. It does have a two speed diff. Any identifying features I should go crawling under to define make and type of axles, and therefore brake components..

The reason I commented is that while a C1500 has simple duo servo type brakes with one long spring,all the larger truck axles have the Wagner type FR and FR2 type brakes with springs all over the place........and massively strong.....You will be needing to have your weetbix the day you do that......If you are planning to replace the cylinder seals,best to get it apart first for sizes.

OK
if U got hyd brakes take many photos of wot goes where
jist so U kno how it all goes back together again
Guess n U may need brake spring caliper

save the monee n borro one or make one
cya

Yeah,I got some of them...they need handles about 3 feet long for the Wagner brakes........It was one job I hated.Especially the old tandem drive ACCOs ,had four wheels with Wagner FR hydraulic brakes.

If you're handy with welder etc you could knock up some gear. Needs a level concrete floor.
We made a "U" shaped frame out of 1" pipe and a 4-wheeled trolley that used old shelves as the wheels. They ran great on the pipe.
The open end of the "U" was pushed under the job with sufficient of the 6' part extending out to where the hub will end up.
Jack up both sides evenly and roll the trolley under the duals.
Lower the jacks so the trolley is carrying that wheel/hub assembly.
Do the obvious stuff, remove axle etc as Swishy has already noted so she's ready to just slide out.
You will make a mess with diff oil even you've dropped it.
We used this system for the semi wheel bearings/brakes but the idea could work for yours.
As everything is nice and level, the seals don't get damaged, nor does your back.

The sheet of tin and a handfull of grease is the easy way....IMHO,there is less chance of the seal being damaged,cause the hub stays straight and level.......And when you re finished ,you can stick the tin back on the roof......Some sort of solid blocking under the axle is needed tho,never trust a jack or pipe stand.........Spiders are a lot heavier than stud hubs,and a lot harder to handle and get straight.....Tin is the go.