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Problems with LED taillights

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11 years 4 months ago #102332 by Hank the Truck
Hello,

Ive recently fitted LED taillights to my 2012 Hino 616 "Trev".

Ive now got the issue of the quick flashing indicators, but I can fix this by putting in LED globes in all indicator positions.

The bigger problem Ive got it with the Brake lights now being LED the ABS reads the lower Wattage as a failure and brings up the ABS and Brake Fail lights on the dash.

Has anyone else dealt with this and found a solution? I understand a load resistor across the brake light to earth wires can fix this?

Any help very much appreciated.

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11 years 4 months ago #102333 by Swishy
U can also fit a inline globe/Festoon type light to draw more current
Did this to a Kenny up under the dash coz without trailer on the flashers on truck.......wouldn't

OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST

There's more WORTH in KENWORTH

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11 years 4 months ago #102334 by bigcam
Mate, Hino's are the worst Jap truck to put LED'd on. Go down to Ashdown's, they have LED resistors, make sure you get the 24V ones, you need 2 for the tail ilght circuit, at least 1 each for the indicators and I think it is 2 for stop lights as well.
If you don't do this the tail lights will glow when the engine is running, but not when it is stopped and all sorts of other weird things. We fit LED's to a lot of them. Fitting a trailer brake kit is also a joy, tell me if you ever find a stop light switch.

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11 years 4 months ago #102335 by Beaver
Flasher cans rely on current flow to work properly. LEDS don't draw enough current to make this happen.

Apart from wiring a normal globe in the circuit somewhere, you can buy "dummy load" resistors, or flasher units designed for LEDs, presumably have the resistors built in or use a different method of switching.

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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11 years 4 months ago #102336 by bigcam
Beaver, you are right with the flashers, but a Hino has all sorts of weirdness built in, you need to use the resistors on the stop light circuit as well as the park light circuit. as well other wise the lights come on when the motor is started.

The LED flasher can is actually a different type and does not contain resistors.

I've also been told It is also technically illegal to fit LED flashers and resistors as it is an ADR that the driver must have some sort of indication that a bulb is blown, which is why the old style flashers go faster with less load in the circuit.

The europeans and a lot of cold countries still prefer bulbs. I've been told this is because a bulb will melt snow when it is illuminated, of course it is little use here with rough roads shortening bulb life and long trailer combinations.

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11 years 4 months ago #102337 by atkipete
You just reminded me I have driven a couple of Jap trucks where there was a second switch ( ex factory) to turn the parking lights on. There is the normal way ie via the headlight switch plus another way. On the Hino I think you pulled the hazard light switch forward or something. Cant remember exactly how on the other truck ( A Mitsi) but it was built into one of the other switches. Maybe some legislative requirement in Japan.
So if you ever get a Jap truck where the parking lights stay on with the headlight switch off, go looking for that other switch.

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11 years 4 months ago #102338 by Beaver
On trucks in Japan, the three centre lights on the cab roof are GREEN and wired up to a speed detector. Not sure what the settings are, but the faster you go, the more lights come on.

Squential turn indicators ( 3 amber each side at the rear) are also quite common on trucks and buses.

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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11 years 4 months ago #102339 by Beaver
A lot of cars these days seem to have stop-light failure detectors.

A friend of mine has a Kia, and it won't even start if a globe has blown.

My 1970s Volvo car had globe failure detection with a warning lamp on the dash. All the lights on the RHS were wired separately to the lights on the LHS. A magnetic reed switch was mounted between the two looms - when the current on both sides was the same the switch was "neutralised"; a reduction on one side from a globe failure caused the switch to trigger and close a contact to the lamp. Fairly basic, but was OK as long as you didn't have failures on both sides simultaneously. Even unbalanced wattages would set it off.

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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11 years 4 months ago #102340 by Beaver


Ive now got the issue of the quick flashing indicators, but I can fix this by putting in LED globes in all indicator positions.

Any help very much appreciated.


The answers are probably already above, but even all LEDS will not solve the problem, at best will just make them flash even quicker.

Beaver@ Museum of Fire

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11 years 4 months ago #102341 by atkipete
I think you have to have one, maybe two normal bulbs in each circuit as well as the LEDs.

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