Crank Handle

I know this great Forum is based on trucks and this thread I feel will fit in just right here. I annoyed you all with my David Brown Tractor and the rust removal from Lorry the Hino so here is my latest challenge, a diesel stationary engine. It is an old McDonald Super Imperial Diesel an SE Model which I think is around 3 full HP. I have been building the timber transporter so I can move it about easier and even built the steel wheels with nice spokes as wheels are getting harder to find all the time. As I am nearing the end of building the transporter I reme,bered that this engine has no crank handle so if anyone here has one for sale or would be kind enough to post a picture of the correct handle I need along with some measurements I will build one.
P.S. if you happen to ahve a rusty looking fuel tank for one I would like one of them as well.

The SE McDonalds didn't have a separate crank handle. There was a handle on a hinge in the side of the flywheel on the side of the engine with the valve rods. You spun that and once it fired the handle went back flush with the side of the flywheel (in theory at least)

Reminds me of the McDonald Diesel we had on the farm

Today I got a phone call of one of the previous owners of the engines and said that these have a built in handle into the flywheel, so while I was talking to him on the phone I went and had a look and there it is, partly sticking out from the flywheel.
So thanks for the heads up, but I haven't had time until now to get on here to correct my stuff up.
Thank you oliver52 and thank you for pointing out about the built in handle to me as well bparo.
At least that is one less thing to find. :oops:

Todays effort got me this far.
Welded the centre pivot bolt to the plate. Drilled and counter sunk the screw holes to fix to the transporter rails, made some saddles to hold the axles in place where I have routered the cross beam to recess the axles and finished all the welding on the axles.

Here's how the axles look mounted and the rear one sitting in place on the rails but not bolted as yet. Tomorrow I have to cut, drill and bolt the stiffening plates onto the cross members.

You are doing excellent work, stylish wheel making to boot. Will you put a turntable in for the front axle .

from experience I would highly recommend a turntable for steering on the "light" end of the engine. My Mcdonald SE didn't have one (that's how it was when I purchased it) and one of the reasons it sold was the difficulty of manoeuvring it with crowbar steering. Everything else has had steering unless it was very light.

Tomorrow after mowing the lawns yet again it will be turntable time. The head of the bolt that is welded in place is for the cross beam to pivot on. The idea is a large flat 3mm plate will be fixed to the main rails using raised head screws. Centre bolt welded to this plate and a square hole recessed into a cross member to take the head of the bolt. Then that bolt goes through the cross member with the axle attached to it but the lock nut will be ressed above the axle inside the cross member. More pics tomorrow should clear that up. Hopefully this will be enough to make the steering light enough. If not I will fit another plate to the cross member and grease it.

Cobba, I happened to inherit an original transporter, not sure what engine it once carried but now has my WWII Petter universal twin on it (in its carry frame). This transporter would have carried a McDonald easily, it has a cast 8 inch tt bottom plate cast with a lip and top plate just fits inside the lip, I guess to hot the grease. Front wheels won't quite go under the two timber chassis beams but will turn under the deck. Tight turns are not quite tight enough.