Replacing brake linings - Fergie
- HeyCharger
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12 years 10 months ago #53958
by HeyCharger
Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.
Replacing brake linings - Fergie was created by HeyCharger
Hi guys. Is it a simple procedure to replace the brake linings (not the whole shoe) on a Fergie? Do you just drill out the old rivets? Haven't done it before and seeing its about $100 cheaper than buying the full set of shoes, thought I'd ask. Rod.
Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.
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12 years 10 months ago #53959
by Eddy
Be it firearms or V8 engines, the question is not "why should you have them?"
, but "who are you to demand that I justify them?"
Replied by Eddy on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
yup
then when ya get to puttin on the new ones, start riveting in the middle and work gradually outwards.
then when ya get to puttin on the new ones, start riveting in the middle and work gradually outwards.
Be it firearms or V8 engines, the question is not "why should you have them?"
, but "who are you to demand that I justify them?"
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12 years 10 months ago #53960
by kenny-mopar
Replied by kenny-mopar on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
also be aware the rivits are usually a lot larger than your hardwear variety
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12 years 10 months ago #53961
by Chocs
Replied by Chocs on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
You should really have a tool to peen the rivet correctly.
A drill hole into the end of some round bar will assist the rivet to peen evenly.
Make sure everything is clean and de burred before you start
If you poke all the rivets through the holes in the lining..
Use sticky tape or packing tape to hold the rivets in..
Have a bolt sticking up out of the vice, that will fit neatly into the hole in the lining where the rivet head is.
Place the rivet head on the bolt and peen away..
Ball peen hammer would suffice for the fergie i guess...
won't be as if she'll be runnin Bathurst this year?
chocs
A drill hole into the end of some round bar will assist the rivet to peen evenly.
Make sure everything is clean and de burred before you start
If you poke all the rivets through the holes in the lining..
Use sticky tape or packing tape to hold the rivets in..
Have a bolt sticking up out of the vice, that will fit neatly into the hole in the lining where the rivet head is.
Place the rivet head on the bolt and peen away..
Ball peen hammer would suffice for the fergie i guess...
won't be as if she'll be runnin Bathurst this year?
chocs
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- HeyCharger
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12 years 10 months ago - 12 years 10 months ago #53962
by HeyCharger
Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.
Replied by HeyCharger on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
Thanks guys for the advice. Very helpful.
Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.
Last edit: 12 years 10 months ago by HeyCharger.
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12 years 10 months ago - 12 years 10 months ago #53963
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Replied by on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
Rod - Chocs advice is spot-on. I usually grind the points off the hex of a bolt head, until it's round, and it's a perfect fit in the rivet head hole.
In addition, you need to clamp the lining to the shoe (small G-clamps are the go), each side of where you're riveting, to ensure that the lining is firmly held against the shoe, when you peen the rivet.
You can get a small punch for peening press-studs, that will work on rivets. Here's a pic of my press-stud punch .. the punch is getting a bit the worse for wear, because I've been peening stainless steel press-studs.
However, you can see the design of the end of the punch fairly clearly. It's just a knob surrounded by a slight concave machined depression. The knob opens up the rivet/press-stud, and the machined depression rolls the metal over, to give you a "proper", factory-looking, rolled finish.
These punches are available on fleabay, or you can pay a visit to a leather-working shop, or saddler, and they will generally have them for sale. Usually about $12 for one. They're about 65mm long and about 6mm in diameter.
If you have a mate with a lathe (Interstater, are you listening? ), he should be able to knock a punch up for you, in less time than it takes to sink a coldie.
In addition, you need to clamp the lining to the shoe (small G-clamps are the go), each side of where you're riveting, to ensure that the lining is firmly held against the shoe, when you peen the rivet.
You can get a small punch for peening press-studs, that will work on rivets. Here's a pic of my press-stud punch .. the punch is getting a bit the worse for wear, because I've been peening stainless steel press-studs.
However, you can see the design of the end of the punch fairly clearly. It's just a knob surrounded by a slight concave machined depression. The knob opens up the rivet/press-stud, and the machined depression rolls the metal over, to give you a "proper", factory-looking, rolled finish.
These punches are available on fleabay, or you can pay a visit to a leather-working shop, or saddler, and they will generally have them for sale. Usually about $12 for one. They're about 65mm long and about 6mm in diameter.
If you have a mate with a lathe (Interstater, are you listening? ), he should be able to knock a punch up for you, in less time than it takes to sink a coldie.
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12 years 10 months ago #53964
by paul404
Replied by paul404 on topic Re: Replacing brake linings - Fergie
Here's my version of a brake rivetor,
Get an old U-bolt, weld on a piece of tube to guide your punch
weld a plate across the bottom to clamp in vice, or weld to ute tray if you have to.
As chocs says, put all the rivets in the holes, cover with masking tape so they don't fall out. Start tapping away, working from the centre out.
Get an old U-bolt, weld on a piece of tube to guide your punch
weld a plate across the bottom to clamp in vice, or weld to ute tray if you have to.
As chocs says, put all the rivets in the holes, cover with masking tape so they don't fall out. Start tapping away, working from the centre out.
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