1948 Fordson E83W pickup

Thanks for all the comments guys, appreciated!!

I spent a bit of time on Clarry today giving the engine a valve grind before reassembling the bits and pieces and resetting the valve clearance gaps. For those who may be unaware, being sidevalve the valves are located in the engine block, not the head. The camshaft operates the cam 'followers' which in turn directly lift the valves. There are no adjustable tappets ... instead the valve clearance is gained by grinding the stem of the valve until the right gap is obtained. The inlet valve gaps were ok, but as I had replaced the exhaust valves I had to take about 20 thou (0.020") off the valve stems.

The main reason I replaced the exhaust valves were excessive wear in the valve guides. The inlet valves, although slightly worn, were ok to go another round. But I DID replace all the two-part valve guides. They poke up into the block and are held in place by the valve spring.

Here's the engine through the side cover showing all the valves assembled and moving fine!! No sticking valves now, and plenty of oil during the reassembly!! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Setting the valves must be a mongrel of a job.

It looks like you need to remove the guide to get the valve out to grind the length then re-assemble and check you have enough taken off.

If you take off too much you'd need to grind the valve in further.

Glad it was you and not me.

Gidday Zuffen ... you are quite right on all counts. But I cheated. Once I had ground the valve down until it seated in the valve seat and cleared the valve follower, I could work out with a feeler gauge how much more had to come off. Then I sat the valve in my digital vernier calipers, measured the length, and subtracted what I needed to grind off. Then kept grinding and filing until the valve just fitted into the calipers again. Wasn't too difficult in the end

Funny story on my prior post.

I said the job would be a bi**h of a job and when I posted the reply it came out as a pregnant dog of a job.

The Forum actually edits bad words out :-[ :-[

Funny story on my prior post.

I said the job would be a bi**h of a job and when I posted the reply it came out as a pregnant dog of a job.

The Forum actually edits bad words out :-[ :-[

Feck !!! ...there are ways around it

Things are progressing slowly. I deglazed the bores with my little spring-loaded SooperCheep engine cylinder hone, using ATF as the lubricant. It turned out ok, but a professional would say that the hone marks should criss-cross at about 45 degrees. I'm happy though. I didn't want to keep honing just to make the marks perfect.

Next I thought I would gap the rings in the bores, but eureka!! It looks like the rings were supplied pre-gapped to between 18-20 thou, which is about 7-8 thou per inch of bore diameter. Again I'm happy with that! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Tomorrow's task if I can get to Clarry after work will be fitting the crankshaft, and then rings to pistons, pistons to con-rods, and con-rods to crank.

G'day Bugly, if I can make a suggestion, using a piston, push the ring towards the bottom of the bore and measure the ring gap. Any taper in the bore will show up then, and ensure that the rings don't bind at the bottom of the stroke.

Funny story on my prior post.

I said the job would be a bi**h of a job and when I posted the reply it came out as a pregnant dog of a job.

The Forum actually edits bad words out :-[ :-[

It's not only the forum that censors words, it's google.
Try typing in ni**er, with the two middle letters being gg.

G'day Bugly, if I can make a suggestion, using a piston, push the ring towards the bottom of the bore and measure the ring gap. Any taper in the bore will show up then, and ensure that the rings don't bind at the bottom of the stroke.

Thanks Ray, I should have thought of that! I'll do that tomorrow, but I'm picking it'll be OK because I don't think it was too long ago that it had the 0.030" rebore.

Bulgy those rings look much bet a ru.

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing

Trevor