K Model Bedford Stuck Clutch

Guys, I have a jammed on clutch plate on my K Model Bedford & having read this forum's notes re the dangers of trying to free it with an engine cranking over, & nudging the vehicle against a tree etc. I'm loath to try these methods in my small driveway.
Does anyone have any other method to release the clutch plate?
Will I have more success with the gearbox out & on the ground?
I've tried spraying Brake cleaner through the flywheel hole back towards the clutch plate & clamping down the clutch pedal & leaving fit or a few days without much success. Should I continue with this process?

Any thoughts?
cheers
Pierre

I will let you in on a little secret to lock up the engine and wind the plate free. This method is a last resort but will work on most vehicle most of the time. Pull the plugs (or injectors) on cylinders 1 and 6 and wind the engine to the bottom of the intake stroke, about to come up on compression on #1. Back the rockers off so the valves for those cylinders are fully closed. Get yourself two good lengths of lawn mower starter rope and feed these into the cylinders. Now continue turning the engine until it locks up.

Jam the clutch pedal down, put the gearbox in top gear and go underneath and disassemble the front driveshaft uni joint. Now put a bar through the yoke and pull on it with everything you've got. It helps if you have an assistant give the pressure plate some encouragement with a dolly and a FBH.

Just be warned that when it lets go that bar will take flight so keep your noggin out of the way.

This one is easy, but will only work if you can get to the edge of the clutch plate.
With the clutch pushed in, a solid-shaft screwdriver, or similar pressed against the edge of the clutch plate and bash it with a hammer.
I had one on a car that was rusted/glued on. No amount of starting in gear, or jamming it in gear would work. A tap with a hammer and screwdriver and it was free.

If your bellhousing encircles the clutch, sorry , I can't help.

Jarrod.

Get yourself two good lengths of lawn mower starter rope and feed these into the cylinders. Now continue turning the engine until it locks up.

Ahh, the old Indian rope trick. Also very good for threading down lawn mower engines and the like to undo the flywheel or crankshaft nut.

Now put a bar through the yoke and pull on it with everything you've got.

Or, mount a trolley jack under the end of the bar and gently load the clutch up by raising the jack. A quilt with a hammer after applying the preload may just knock it free too.

Usually just start in gear and drive around pushing the clutch in and out will release them. need a paddock to do it in though

Have a better chance of it loosening off when in top gear (direct) when there is less mechanical advantage. Corrogated dirt road does wonders!

Thanks diesel dog,asw120, Jon_d, Paul404 &Mammoth.
I'm overseas at the moment but I'll work thru these when I get back. Yeah, I forgot about that rope method.
Not sure I can get to the clutch plate thru the bell housing, I know there is a slot there, but think that's just the flywheel for timing, any way will have another look.
many thanks guys, this forum is wealth of info.
Will let you know how I get on.
cheers
Pierre

Last year I sought advice from the forum re a stuck clutch on my '53 Bedford K.
As the motor wasn't running I was unable to perform the usual tricks & put it in the too hard basket.
I've gradually been pulling things down so I can get to the bare chassis for sanding & painting, refurbishing as I go, including the wheels & prop shafts,

So before I go too much further my question is:-
Once I have the motor & gearbox out & on the ground will I be able to separate the clutch from the flywheel?
Preload perils to be aware of?
The only access hole I can see in the bell housing is for the timing of the toothed mark on the flywheel, but this is too far forward to get a lever in.

Advice appreciated
cheers
Pierre

OK. thanks for adding the previous posts, from 2014, my how time flies.
Given I've got the prop shaft off, & engine/gearbox are more stable in the chassis, I'll give Diesel Dog's suggestion with the rope trick a go this weekend & report back.
I've got a buggered shoulder that's getting operated on next week, so a bit limited.
Are but that's what sons are for right! :lol:
cheers
Pierre

Hey mate, since you have the engine and gearbox out, you may as well separate them, clean things up and inspect the clutch, change the bearings and grease the release fork. My rope trick is a sort of dodgy last resort to get you out of trouble without removing any major parts. Now that you have the opportunity, doing a proper job now will pay for itself in many trouble free miles and save you having to do the job again down the track.

If your really keen, I would recommend changing the rear engine seal and gearbox input seal while your in there.