Comair engine

Hi all,
i am looking for some information, i am involved with the restoration of a Comair bus for a museum. The bus is a 72 BJ with a 300 engine fitted, this engine has been dismantled many years ago and left out in the weather so it is beyond use. I have located another 300 engine i intend to purchase, but my question is, the bus engine has a heart shaped front timing cover that mounts a compressor the engine i can purchase does not have this type of timing cover, can i fit the compressor mount timing cover to the other engine, i have all the parts on the original engine.

Welcome, Comair.
Pretty sure Comair only built the Body. I'm Guessing It's a Bedford Chassis & Engine.
Petrol & Diesel??

Yes, CAC at fisherman's bend built the body and as you said its on a Bedford chassis and running gear. I am concerned that the engine i have been offered with out the compressor is a match for my engine and i can retro fit the compressor timing cover on it. the bus was built as a diesel and converted by Tysons bus lines to the 300 petrol.

Early Comair /Bedfords VAM had vacuum brakes and the later VAL series had air assist via a compressor
The 300C.I motor was the same block so the compressor should mate to the block..........
Hope this helps but I STBC.........

Try and get a copy of the Bedford TS1084 manual.
It covers all the engines except the 500 diesel.

They appear on ebay between $10 and $80.


This is the section from the 300 petrol; it refers to the diesel which has the heart cover.

Bedford 300 and 330 motors are a very risky buy cause the headstuds ran thru the waterspace to the bottom of the block.The studs were heavily copperplated ,but if this is gone,these studs will be rusted off,very difficult to replace.Seen many writeoff motors from this.

our bus has air over hydraulic brakes and 2 pneumatic operated doors, so we need the compressor, i purchased a manual from Ebay so it looks as if i now have a project to get on with, thank you for your information.

JOHN.K. wrote: Bedford 300 and 330 motors are a very risky buy cause the headstuds ran thru the waterspace to the bottom of the block.The studs were heavily copperplated ,but if this is gone,these studs will be rusted off,very difficult to replace.Seen many writeoff motors from this.

If you couldnt buy copper plated head studs would the copper spray that is used for applying head gaskets sprayed all over the stud work the same or maybe even just some anti seize ??

I saw a thing the other day with exhaust manifold studs broken off in a aluminum head were they tried the normal build it up with a MIG and unwind buy it wouldnt come loose
So they built it up with a MIG and hooked a couple of decent size 12 volt batteries up in series across the stud, as in one jumper lead on the stud and the other on the block or head and heated the studs up till the fairly glowed and then when cooled just unwound them buy hand

Amazing I though for getting steel out of aluminum

Paul

Just goes to show no matter how old we are, or how much we THINK we know, there's always someone who comes up with a different slant on things.
Had heard of removing studs with a surge of electricity, never contemplated doing that to a manifold stud I need to get out, didn't have one of those fancy 1/2" stud removers, tried locking two nuts on the same stud and next attempt was a bit of gentle heat with the gas axe. Started to stretch and groan so knocked off before I snapped it altogether.
Dave

Comair,

PM sent. jd