1945 fargo truck

hi, i have a1945 fargo truck it was built in detroit i believe it is two ton. i have found it hard to get work shop manual for this truck. she is not rusty but a bit sunburn would like to hear from any one who knows any thing about this truck thankyou westerly. :

still a few getting about, this is the model I am looking for myself. if you need to do any body work rust repairs and need to do patch panels you cant go past a air tool called a flange/holepunch, use 18 or 20 guage sheet and you can patch anything, was a place in Toowoomba called Express Engineering that held most of the engine parts you may need, any manual for the 40's 50's and 60's should be ok for your engine needs. flat head six for 30 yrs production, Massey Furguson used the engine in some of their combines.

G - Tell us more about this interesting and magic tool called a flange/holepunch .. and how it's used.
I saw an air planishing hammer on eBay that looked like a cool tool .. but I dunno if I would have enough panel beating skills to be able to utilise it, to its best ability.

I've no doubt, in capable hands, that planishing hammer would be a real weapon. I've heard of blokes who can knock up a complete new mudguard out of a flat sheet, and make it look like it was a factory press job ..

cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250551404515

Haven't heard of a flange hole punch before. While the really skilled sheet metal worker are long gone there seems to be a growing interest from restorers and accordingly the supply of tools to meet this need. I imported a set of rollers from USA for an english wheel i built and what do you know Hare & Forbes now sell an outfit. Checkout www.covell.biz for more info on the posibilities.

I would like to know about this tool also.
patching panels made easier sound good.

OK, it is a simple looking little air tool. on one side it has a hole punch and the other is a flanger. this flanger steps your 18 -20 guage sheet steel to an approx depth of 20 gauge with a ten mm lip, the patch piece simply sits flush in the flanged area.
You have two options and I will describe both.
The first one is if you dont have the abiltiy to bring the patch panel through from the back or inside the panel.

You cut a square or straight edged shape out around your rusted truck sheetmetal.
Flange the edge of this newly formed hole. corners are tricky and usually cant flange hard into the corners so I 45% mitre cut the repair piece to omit the unflanged corners.
Cut the corrsponding patch piece and holepunch it every 4-6 cm. you then shape the piece to match any contours before fixing it. The next step is very easy, place the panel in flanged space and tack weld the piece through the holes . Weld opposites as not to warp any thing. once all tacks are dont grind and bog or lead the small gap left by the two piece butted up. What you have is a strong doubled layered patch that can be done very quickly.
the other way is to holepunch the edge on the truck , flange the repair piece, bring it htrough from the back and tack in.
Tool can be found at atleast trade tools for approx $90 -$120.

O.K., I get it, thanks for the info. I found a series of pics of a bloke restoring a Mustang, and it appears he's used the same tool to replace the rear guards. Scroll down until you see the pic of the bloke grinding the welds, and look at that pic, and the ones each side of that pic .. pretty neat ..

www.cardomain.com/ride/3156277